Part 7.

Alameda California to Los Angeles California - including our exploration of Northern California.

8 July 2014

Alameda California to Bodega Bay California.


We head out early-ish knowing that the heat will be mounting by mid-morning from now on. We follow the same route to Petaluma we have learned from our first week in California. This heads around the eastern side of the harbour - so you get a view of the city to the west as you head towards the Richmond Bridge.


Going north over the bridge is when you have to pay tolls - $15 for van and trailer, $5 for bikes. It all hinges on the number of axles. Because we are prepared for it there is no problem - previously it has been because we were often not expecting it and bikes shot through two at a time. Oops.


This bridge was a blast the first time we went over it - still is. It is rather high at the apex - several hundred feet - so the wind can be a force to be reckoned with. This morning is not too bad, and we simply enjoy the passage. Coming down the far side is a real panorama of the north harbour, with the summer dry hills beckoning us into northern california.


We detour through Petaluma, as we are familiar with it, and there is still much of the town we have not yet explored. During our transit this morning we find that it is even more expansive than we had first thought, and decide we should give it more of our time if we get the chance. Pretty place..


Following the road to the coast, we retrace the routes we followed on the BSA rally, and thus we recognise the small town of Valley Ford as we approach.


Having left early without any breakfast, we decide to try out the small cafe at Valley Ford for our brunch. It is intimate and friendly, and the waitresses are happy to chat about who we are, what we are doing here, and where we might find interesting stuff. Perfect.


Whilst we are jibing Sue as she takes the photo, we are pretty happy to be heading to a coastal location for a week. We have no idea what it will actually look like, or how well appointed it might be. I guess we are about to find out. From here it is only a few miles to Bodega Bay, where we locate the office of the booking agents and secure the door key. They are friendly and eager to ensure all is as it should be. We have a good feeling about this place. We head back along the highway until we find the golf course signs, then follow our noses until we find Wren Close. All modern dwellings in a very tidily laid out subdivision surrounding the golf course. Presumably golfers are the predominant clients here. We shall enjoy being the exception. Our house looks very nice as we look around.


Internal garage suits us fine..


Nice expansive kitchen and lounge area that we will be able to relax in - as you do...


We draw straws for bedrooms - we get the one without ensuite - but it certainly has everything else.


This is going to be a lovely place for a week - from which to explore all the surrounding towns and roads. We feel very lucky with this find. Cool to be us.


As the sun sets in the notorious San Fran fog we settle in to our new temporary home. We are only 6 now - seems very quiet after our more boisterous gatherings as a group of 12, but this will be a quiet time for reflection on our big trip and revisiting the choicest parts of northern California.

Can't wait.!


9 July 2014

Bodega Bay day 1. It is a very foggy morning. We are keen to revisit Occidental - a town we passed through on the BSA rally. We can head north up the coast then climb into the clouds before heading into the Redwoods as we wind down to this small but most picturesque township. We shall take the van so that we can do some grocery purchases in order to prepare our own meals this week. We set out in the gloom.


By the time we reach Occidental the ceiling has lifted a bit and it is rather pleasant. A town in the redwoods.


Cool mixture of foliage and shops here.


We move on to Sebastopol to look around and check their town as well. This whole area is a delight to drive around - lovely countryside and two lane roads that meander about. From here we take the shortest route back to Bodega Bay and the local supermarket which is quite well stocked. Lots of fresh food heads home with us and after a period of great activity this is the result.


It is just like being at home only different. I think we are going to enjoy this place.!

Thank you chef(s).!


10 July 2014

Bodega Bay day 2. San Fran and back.


Foggy morning again. A mile or two inland it will be clear and sunny and stinking hot by midday. This allows us to make forays into the hot bits, then return to the comfort of the coast when we have had enough. Nice arrangement. Today the plan is to follow the coast road south toward San Fran city, culminating in traversing the Golden Gate bridge. This will take us through Valley Ford - our current choice of breakfast venue - and so we do.!


A few miles from here we turn south along the Shoreline Highway through Tomales Bay and Marshall to Point Reyes Station. This route follows the inland side of Tomales Bay which meanders along the shore and through numerous areas of gum trees. Whilst not able to travel at high speeds, we enjoy the fabulous scenery and sparsely populated small towns - a mere 25 miles from San Fran.




We reach Stinson Beach which is the first beach on this coast north of San Fran city - and only 15 miles from it. From here the road climbs up high along the cliffs before crossing to the east side of the hill where it joins the 101 and heads across the Golden Gate bridge. We pause to look back at the beach. You would expect this place to be crowded if it were only 15 miles from a major NZ city - but here it is to all intent deserted. Nice beach too..


As we climb we suddenly pop out of the low cloud and are treated to a great view towards San Fran - the Sutro tower marks the spot. It appears that the city is in the clear - so it is going to get hot now.


Dropping down the hill behind Sausalito we join up with the 101 and head toward the bridge. The traffic chooses this moment to slow down and we do the stop/go crawl for a bit.


We enter a brief tunnel and enjoy being out of the heat. Temp is probably in the 30's now. We wouldn't mind being stopped here for a while, but the crawl has us out in the sun again fairly soon.


Leaving the tunnel we get our first view of the bridge. Hard to judge from here, but it looks pretty damn big.


We continue our slow progress and the city comes into view. We intend to ride along the foreshore once we have cleared the bridge - not sure what we will find there - industry - shops - warehouses..?


Now we hit the bridge. Those structures really are huge. We are totally dwarfed by it all, as are all the other vehicles flowing over with us. The traffic is now steadily moving along and will no doubt reach a crescendo in the city. Seems to be about-face really.


Here we are guys - the Golden Gate - another icon we can add to the list. Woohoo. Wonder how much the toll will be.?


Midday on the dot. As the sign says - do not stop. They photograph your numberplate and you somehow need to pay for the privilege of transit. Locals have accounts they use regularly for various tolls around the city - we do not. They fine you for non-payment, so we will need to find out how to square them up. No doubt the internet will provide the answer.


Clearing the bridge area we find that the waterfront here is a wall of lovely San Fran style houses - they really look fabulous, and are quite unlike any other city dwellings we have encountered.


Reaching the far end of Marina Boulevard we regroup briefly in the only shade around. We decide to look for a lunch spot back across the bridge in Sausalito, so retrace our steps back in that direction.


We will be heading north across the bridge this time. They only have tolls in one direction, so we will get a free ride.


We get glimpses toward the inner city as we pass the ends of the streets. What fabulous buildings. This would be a really cool place to live.


Back on the bridge. Heaps of foot traffic too. They come to walk this bridge in droves - but do not seem so keen to walk on a beach a few minutes further north. What is that about.?


A last look back toward the city. Alameda where we stayed for a week is behind the island on the left end of the Bay Bridge which heads across to Oakland. Strange to be looking back from here.


We cruise down to Sausalito and take a walk along the busy touristy street. Nice shops to entice with food and more food. We find a bar for a rest in the shade before settling for a quirky little Mexican cafe near where we have parked the bikes. There are two choices for returning to our Bay - we either retrace the coast route, or follow the 101 back to Petaluma and then take the Valley Ford road. The coast road was so nice we choose to go back that way again. We will stop for a look at Point Reyes Sation.


Its a great ride up the hill above Sausalito, and we remain in the sun until we drop down to Stinson beach. It would seem that the sun has brought a few brave souls to the beach.


We wait on this bend so as to catch the others coming down the hill. Ann is perfectly placed on her side of the road as usual..


Brent has got "the wave" down to a fine art..


Steve and Andi had got ahead and were waiting further along the road. We pass them and they rejoin the group on the nice bush-clad stretch on the way in to Point Reyes.


This is a pretty little town with very little traffic considering the location. I guess 99% of the traffic would prefer to stay on the 101 and make faster progress rather than this slow and twisty route. Suits us.!


As has been the way of it since we began the trip - we are usually the biggest thing happening when we pull up in another small town. Its a "Gang"! Well - half a gang now.


Probably the nicest bit of this road was the first part along the edge of Tomales Bay, and that is the bit after this stop. At one point I got a bit joyful about the road and totally blew the modest speed limit for a mile or so. I had only begun to slow again when a police car whizzed by in the opposite direction. Fortunately he kept going, but it was a timely reminder. We remained under the edge of the cloud all the way back to Bodega Bay, even though we could see the sun and the heat happening over toward Petaluma and Sebastopol. Tomorrow we would go more in that direction.


We cruised home and preparation began for another feast at our temporary mansion. The internet did indeed provide the answer to the Golden Gate toll, and we each paid our $7 online - thus hopefully circumventing any nasty surprises later in the piece.

We enjoyed another meal that couldn't be beat, and chatted about the images we had seen today. It was quite a blast really - as you can see by the number of photos I have posted. Plenty more where they came from too.

But there will be a new set tomorrow..

Cheers.


11 July 2014

Bodega Bay day 3. Bodega Bay - Occidental - Monte Rio - Guerneville - Healdsburg - Sebastopol - Bodega Bay.


No fog this morning but low cloud hangs over the coast as we look from our window down across the inlet to where many fishing boats are moored. The camera lens makes it look tantalisingly close.


Today we will explore towards Guerneville and the Russian River. We will go via Occidental through to Monte Rio which takes us through the redwoods, then on to Guerneville for a wander around. It is a lovely road which curves about the small waterways that drain into the Russian River which we finally cross as we enter Monte Rio. This is a small town whose main purpose seems to be the tourist trade generated by the river visitors - a popular spot for local holidaymakers. Interesting eatery..


It is only a short hop from here to Guerneville, lots of glimpses of people in the river, and plenty houses nestled in the trees along the way. It is rather idyllic and our first real experience of Americans on family holidays in the quiet places. Guerneville is somewhat larger, with a rather strange hippy-ish feel to it. Fun shops and a holiday atmosphere. Still amongst the big trees.


We wander about checking this place out. Some interesting old vehicles and more quirky shops. We enjoy a coffee outside a small cafe and have fun watching the unusual clientele. It is pretty hot now and the shade is attractive. After a suitable pause we move on along the river again. We pass a woman chopping firewood by the roadside - there is a sign and you can buy her wood for $5. People do a lot for very little here.


We continue to follow the river through numerous vineyards towards Healdsburg. It is very dry everywhere but obviously they have water to use for their grapes. Presumably the river is a valuable resource in more ways than one.


We arrive at Healdsburg a little too soon - the towns are quite close together here. It is well into the 30's heat-wise and we have enjoyed the shade afforded by the trees along the roadside. We have been here before and remember it as a pretty town. It does not disappoint second time around.


It is also rather busy so we park up and look for somewhere to eat. We finally settle for a Greek restaurant which has nice tables in the shade. A most pleasant spot to share a meal with good friends. Especially some you have ridden around America with.!


After lunch we head back towards Guerneville, but on the east side of the river. Once again, it is a succession of vineyards and wineries, all tempting one to taste their best. We have not yielded to the temptation since the BSA rally brought us here to do just that, but we have been in the way of buying the occasional bottle. Or three...


The wineries are all fabulous to look at, and would make for a nice visit, but there are so many that it is rather bewildering as to which one to try first. So we don't. I suppose that is one way to handle it. You can even stay overnight if you are unfit to drive..


We seek the shelter of the big trees again as we approach Guerneville from the other side this time, then turn south toward Forestville and Sebastopol. These are roads we have not ridden before, so we are making sure to look around in case there is something that warrants a closer look on another day.


Nice roads, and the lengthening shadows are helping the heat to dissipate a little now. We have to time our rides and breaks to avoid the worst of the heat where possible. It is not unbearable, but it detracts from the pleasure of exploration, especially when on foot and in motorcycle gear.


We reach Sebastopol which is a place we all like, and from here we are on familiar roads again. We head southwest through Bodega township which is still about 5 miles from Bodega Bay. This place has what appears to be Americas smallest Casino..


We have found before that the merest of gambling devices warrants the title of Casino, so it may just be a pinball machine. We return home and begin the evening meal preparations. This often involves some form of alcohol for me, so is a fitting end to a journey through the vineyards of northern California. It was a comprehensive circuit of the towns nearest us, and a long awaited return to Healdsburg. We still did not see much of it, but may return when we explore the lower reaches of the Russian river - accessed from further up the coast.

But that will be another day. This one is closing.

Go well.


12 July 2014

Bodega Bay day 4. Today we are going to Sonoma. It was a place we really felt was special when we visited during the rally week, to attend the farmers market one Saturday night. As today is Saturday, we figure we might luck into the same scenario. Last time we went late in the afternoon and things continued into the evening, so we intend to get there later in the day.

This morning is a time for washing clothes, an oil change on Ann's bike, and a few other manoeuvres. It feels good that we are totally autonomous in our rental house, so it matters not what we do - we are here, and we are enjoying this place together. When we were on the road, we were basically homeless between the hours of 9am until 3pm. It feels very good to have a base that we can reatreat to at any hour - or just hang there if we want. We take a drive down to the waterfront at some stage - a strange mix of boating facilities and old type holiday homes all crowded together on the town side of the inlet. Nothing much takes our fancy so we return to town. I take a ride down the beach with my muffler removed. I know - still a lad under this aged facade. It is suitably loud and aggressive, but the tuning has suffered terribly, and it is a pig to ride. I am also wary of attracting the wrong sort of attention, so I cruise back home and refit the civilised bits. Hey - its all fun.

Mid afternoon we head off in the general direction of Sonoma. We arrive late afternoon to find that there is no market, and the only reference we can find to such is a weekday affair. Seems we may have lucked into a rare event when we were first here. We make the most of this visit by walking about the shops which are spread around the town square. Sweet little town. The square - they call it the Plaza - is the focal point.


There is music happening here, but our interest wanes when it turns out to be a christian group singing godly sounds. Must not tarnish our motorcycle image..


Strangely enough, I find an interesting little Bar to regain my balance, and am fully engaged in learning its history when the others find me here in the shadows. Hahaha. Merely avoiding the heat..


The afternoon is getting old so we all saddle up and ride for home. Instead of heading back through Petaluma we head further north through Santa Rosa to Sebastopol and thus home. It is a very good time of day temperature-wise, but we must blend with the after work traffic, so progress is a bit slower as we pass through the myriad of vineyards that is northern California.


Grapes notwithstanding, it is time to return home for my latest beer tasting enterprise. I have secured a couple of prime candidates at our local supermarket. Although I am lacking in knowledge of their pedigree, I am very impressed by their credentials. 7.5% and 11.25% respectively. Probably brewed at Cape Kennedy...


I join Major Tom for the evening and all is well.

Tomorrow we have more maintenance work to do, but that can be fun.

How cool is this place.?


13 July 2014

Bodega Bay day 5. Today we will mostly stay put near our base. While Steve and I do some bike maintenance on various bikes, some go to visit Bodega township - where Alfred Hitchcock did his 'Birds' thing way back when, and they are still attempting to cash in on it. Our lot get some good photos though..




Really - when you look at these photos - despite the fact that we do not have such an historic past to call on - these could be from any NZ small town. This is why we feel so much at home here. The culture is so similar to our own, and yet, due to the economies of scale - it is also very different. Not sure what to make of this though..


Ann's new friend is not the talkative type. When the troops return, we all travel in the van to the far side of the inlet to a restaurant we have read about in the brochures scattered about our rental home. It sounds very promising in a fishing village sorta way. Like this..


And across the road it looks like this..


After our suitably fishy lunch - which really is a tasty treat - we wander along the waterfront where most of the craft are working boats, but it could have been any seaside anywhere on the planet.



Only somehow this is bigger. They do stuff bigger here. Walk over we drive to the seaward side of the peninsula, and view the Pacific Ocean. It is the same ocean that visits our shores at home - but here it also looks bigger...


We head back home, pausing to buy a few supplies from the supermarket - while Sue trots across the road to look in the candy store. BIGGER..


I console myself with my own form of candy..


And of course - we eat an evening meal fit for conquerors of such a continent, while the evening turns on a perfect sunset..


Thank you California - we are most indulged.


14 July 2014

Bodega Bay day 6. With the benefit of hindsight - here is the map of where we will travel today.


North along the coast to just before Jenner, then inland along the Russian River to Duncans Mills, Monte Rio and Guerneville. From here we will all go our separate ways to explore the places we have decided are worth a final visit.


The photo above epitomises the California coast in many ways. Much more countrified than we would have thought, and sparsely populated, with what we would term at home - an 'east coast' look. This is the west coast here, but several years of drought have wrought a much more arid look than we were expecting, and since springtime on our first visit it has changed immensely. To turn inland and immediately find the kind of river paradise one would expect in summer New Zealand is a blast. This is just beautiful.


Duncans Mills is a sudden discovery. Whilst we did view the map, this place hardly rated a mention. It is an historic site of a timber mill which shipped much timber to San Fran via a railroad to Sausalito in the early 1900's. There are many relics, but the functioning town is a delight on its own. We enjoy the bakery first. Would this car look out of place in NZ.?


After this delightful interlude, we all wander about the various old shops and enjoy our interaction with the locals. A very cool place. Some of the historic business and railroad buildings have been preserved for our edification. And yours should you come this way..


The General Store and staff are particularly impressive..


Curiosity satisfied, we head off toward Monte Rio, this time arriving from the coast. The same fabulous redwoods surround the highway on the road in. We ride down beneath the bridge and behold the same scene I enjoyed in my childhood - idyllic safe river moving slowly through lush surroundings. This feels so familiar it is hard to believe. This place is remarkable in so many ways - but I realise that mostly it is because - like my memories - it is larger than life.


Small wonder the Russian River enjoys such a special significance for the residents of this part of California. It is a gem amidst what is also a special part of America - but then - America enjoys so many special parts. We just happen to be in this one right now.


We explore the backstreets of Monte Rio and discover more of the sort of places we thought we would be frequenting in small towns such as this. Next visit we will stay right here. We also find the funky cafe we saw first time here, so we drop in for a coffee. Excellent venue.


Plymouth Powler - YESS.! Love these cars. As our Chevy van has proven, a V6 is enough, and the Prowler has such an engine layout. Besides that, it just looks so good. Want. We ride on to Guerneville, and view more quaint streets, there are so many such venues in this part of northern California. It has been such a great place to spend some time. Tomorrow we will move to Petaluma, as we have a bike that needs some clever diagnostics that we cannot do ourselves. It is booked into the Triumph Dealers at Santa Rosa, so Petaluma is the logical place to stay, and we know it well. Meanwhile - we are in Guerneville main street..


I have been saying to Steve that I really wanted to find some small airport where I could see some old aircraft flying. They certainly have a lot of airworthy examples over here, but as yet, our paths have not coincided. I decide to head on along River Road and visit the Sonoma County Airport near Santa Rosa. On arrival it is obvious that there is some form of museum here, but static displays are not what I was looking for.


Fossicking about - as you do - I discover at least two seemingly airworthy examples of the Douglas A26 Invader. The last time I saw one of these it did something very terminal at Biggin Hill - an image that has never left my mind. These two look to be in very good repair, but not flying anywhere today. Shame.


It is too hot to hang around here in the heat, so we beat a retreat to Sebastopol and find a nice shady bar. This one has a railroad theme - including a model railway that circumnavigates the entire building up near ceiling level. The Barmaid duly fires it up in response to my enquiry, and the large scale model performs several laps of the establishment before shutting itself down again. Brilliant. You can see the track upper left of the photo.


We revive in the shade, with the help of a few cool rounds. We are nearly home again, but will avail ourselves of the excellent wholefood supermarket which is a key feature of this town. I just love it.


Before coming to America I had heard numerous stories of how tasteless the fruit was here - from travellers who were used to more home grown efforts. Our experience has been much the opposite. The fruit has been just awesome, and with berries currently in season, we have seldom missed an opportunity to stock up. These strawberries are only $2.99 per container, and they are out of this world. We have seen fields full of them, simply miles long, and were so impressed that they were still grown in such an old fashioned way - considering market pressures. The results make it all worthwhile.! 100%


Our want for natural foods fulfilled, we head towards our bay home for the last time. A final photo or two at Bodega, where the restored buildings used for "The Birds" movie sets are still in good repair and are great examples of period architecture. Birds notwithstanding, this is an atmospheric place. Well chosen Alfred H.!


That was our final day of exploring this sector of California. As we appreciate from the map, we have barely scratched the surface, and without detailed local knowledge, you can miss something totally amazing by mere inches. Given the limitations of our stay, we have tried to be thorough in the areas we have chosen. The rest may benefit from a second exploration sometime in the future. Tomorrow we will return to the same motel in Petaluma that we used during the BSA rally. We know where it is and what it is, and it has a great breakfast. Hard to beat. After that, we will venture elsewhere.

Just where, remains to be seen...


15 July 2014

Bodega Bay California to Petaluma California.


Not much of a ride there then. The distance between these two places is about 25 miles - so it is not so much of a journey - more a reposition.

As you would imagine, the day we leave our rented house is the day we try to remember where everything was when we arrived - and attempt to put it back there. As we have not received any subsequent bad press - we can presume we did ok. We certainly loaded the generous rubbish bins to max capacity - with the proceeds of various oil changes and general oily bits - all ensconced within the black plastic liners of the bins. We did not spill a drop - despite the fact that synthetic oil costs a fraction of the price we pay at home. Curse this oil economy. Anyway - once we finally get underway, our first stop is the office of the rental agency so we can return the door key. From here we saunter in the direction of Valley Ford for our ceremonial last brunch at our favourite 'local'. This entails a quick stop on the highway for Sue to take 'that photo' we have been whizzing by for a week..


Another example of an abandoned building which has simply been left for the passing years to observe. And us of course. Resuming our brief journey before the local Constabulary can be alerted that there are crazy foreigners loose on the highway, we arrive at Valley Ford and assume our normal positions. A final breakfast to cement the image into our minds.


The more observant will have noticed already that it is our day in the van - seeing as how we are in civvies and all. Everyone who ever had a 'van' day was quite happy to be in the van - but also missed being on their bike(s). It feels somehow detached from the main reason for being here. Even on this short stretch of highway we have now travelled a dozen times - I would rather be riding it. We finish our excellent breakfast and make our easy cruise into Petaluma. There is no need to turn the GPS on - we know exactly how to find the motel. On the way there, we pass a market, and take note in order that we may return after setting up camp. We do just that, and return to browse the market..


The market is mostly selling food - some of which we sample. Nice food but mostly of the nature we have been trying to avoid. I should make an observation here. Pretty well all the food we have tried in America has been well prepared and appetising to look at - apart from grits.! Its just that we have become increasingly diet conscious as we are putting on weight. At home we might have a cooked breakfast of bacon and eggs at most once a week. Here - we can often enjoy it every day or two. Besides this, we are simply riding our bikes and strolling about looking at stuff, so not really burning off a lot of calories. I would happily eat most of what is on every menu - I simply would not fit into my clothing for very long. There is fruit however, and we buy some of that too. From here we head downtown and find a park so we can wander the streets. Petaluma is a very pleasant town - this much we already suspected, but it is very nice to be proven correct. A pleasant afternoon spent here. Later we return to camp and prepare to deliver Brent's bike to the Santa Rosa Triumph shop. I am to ride it so as to gain an impression of what it is doing. The bike runs well and is a willing responder to throttle input, but as the ride progresses it begins to run roughly and display erratic behaviour. We pause at the Cycle Gear shop, after which the bike will not start and appears to have a flat battery. We jump start it from the van battery and it runs ok to the shop. The Service Manager chats to us and decides that it most likely needs a new alternator. We leave it with them on the understanding that this will happen by tomorrow morning.

We return to Petaluma once again. We eat in our rooms then conclude our night and get some z's.

Sad to leave Bodega Bay - excited to be heading somewhere new.


16 July 2014

Petaluma California to Lakeport California.


We have decided to stay by a lake. Clear Lake is about 100 miles north, and sits at the top of the Napa Valley wine area. It also promises to be surrounded by a few interesting roads inasmuch as they may even involve corners. Sounds good to us.!

We enjoy the free breakfast provided by our motel - and are reminded of just how good we had it here. Toast, bacon, eggs, sausages, plus fruit, yoghurt, various pastries and assorted stuff. Brilliant. What diet.? We had no idea when we were starting out what the average fare would consist of - now we have seen some of the best and some of the worst. I think we can even recognise which is which. Just by checking in. Yoiks. A good breakfast is worth taking your time over - so we do. At some point in the morning, the good guys from Santa Rosa phone Brent to say his bike is ready, so we prepare to head in that direction. We know the way around here now, so no need to consult maps or gps - we just go there. We also know this shop - always good being around motorcycles..


Brent's bike is located at the far end of an array of presumably repaired machines - impressive output if that is the case. Sue gets acquainted with the shop mascot while we survey the area.


This is a Triumph/BMW agency - it would seem that it is mostly BMW's needing repair. Note that for future reference. Brent's Sprint looks outwardly unimpressed - hopefully it's new alternator will fix all it's ills. We won't know today, as Brent and Ann are in the van, and the Sprint is simply wheeled to the street and loaded aboard the waiting trailer. We have had comments about our loading procedures in the past - we must look pretty professional by now - with around 200 loadings/unloadings to our credit. Not many riders manage that in their lifetime. Probably a good thing. But no animals were hurt in the process. Much..


They fix other brands as well here. From the ridiculous to the sublime. We get the impression that the stripped down Beemer belongs to a staff member. It is always here. Nice job. Leaving Santa Rosa we head for the hills. Literally. We head out to Spring Lake then into the hills in the general direction of Calistoga. Name has a familiar ring to it - can not think why. Maybe I am thinking of Chattanooga. The road is delightful - curling around hills but mostly under tree cover which keeps the temperature to a pleasant level. Approaching Calistoga we refuel then look for the centre of town. It is close by. We are immediately fond of it - looks pretty and inviting. Even better, there is a parking space in the main drag that can accommodate the van and trailer. It is close to midday - perhaps a spot of refreshment is in order.


We are always making comparisons between this country and our own - but this place reminds us of Lyttelton before the quakes. Only this place is still here. We like that about it already. Of course - its bigger. Figures..


Another day - another cafe. What luxury. Despite the fact that we are riding bikes - thus kinda 'working' our way around this vast continent, I feel like the most spoiled tourist ever. The freedom we are enjoying is like nothing I have in the past. I travelled around Asia on a shoestring back in the day - this feels like the super luxury version. Not that we are buying much - but just riding any damn direction we want - buying every meal - spending pleasurable hours with friends - you can't beat this. Although I will try. Spot who's riding and who isn't.


We wander the street for a last glimpse of this quaint little town. From every angle it looks smooth. We like smooth.


Leaving Calistoga we are immediately back in the hills, where the road curves back on itself frequently. Corners that just keep going further round until you think you will meet yourself coming back.


And then we're off.! The road settles to a more orderly set of bends and Miller is away. Before I know it he has opened up a gap and the game is on. Hahaha..


Yeehaa...


In and out of the bends - you never know what scene is about to present itself.


Yay. I could follow Steve and Andi for weeks, its such a blast. Come to think of it - I guess that is just what I have been doing. Mind you, we seldom stay in any given order for long, but with a smaller crew now - it is either follow you or follow me when the van is in use. For the next few days we will have a base again and we can all ride together. Wizard.!


In too short a time we are arriving at Lakeport and attempting to find our motel. There is a very long main street although the shopping area is fairly modest. Nice houses here, and leafy but not too poncy side streets. Looks ok. No sign of the lake yet - hope we will not be too far from it. At the north end of town we finally spot the Skylark Shores Resort. Alright - it looks a bit more modest than the name suggests, but pleasant enough. While Sue is in the office, I wander around the far side. Wow. We are right by the lake. This place looks fabulous. A totally random choice for us - a lake sounded good - but we have dropped into a north Californian version of Kashmir. Choice.


We explore the lakefront aspect of the motel - our three rooms are upstairs at the far end of the verandah. Perfect. Note one rather happy pillion passenger here. This is going to be such a nice spot.


Our access is around the street side where we have the added benefit of a carpark right at the foot of our stairs. Notice how efficient we are at conserving carparks - considering we have three rooms. Actually - we lock all the bikes together at night as a precaution. We have not had any negative attention thus far - but nor shall we encourage it. It does help that we are already the roughest element hereabouts. Its those bikey chics..


Well - having got the layout sorted, all that remains is to move ourselves in and check out the view from our rooms. We have the end, Steve and Andi are next, Ann and Brent No.3 - so they get neighbours. It all seems very quiet and orderly, with some family groups down below with lawn frontage. This must have been really something when new. Quite old now, but the staff seem proud of it and we love it too. Lets see now...


Damn. Just look at that. Will we be happy here. Will we hell. Besides - there are tables and chairs on this verandah - perfect place for a few soirees. We have once again dropped into something special. It has been a pattern on our trip - the best things happen. I figured that whatever happened would be the best thing anyway - but it seems to keep ramping up. Love it. Already we are thinking we should have booked more than three days. They have bookings that may prevent us from extending if we choose to try and do that. Hmmm. Lets make the most of this.


There are interesting structures along the lakeside. These are private jettys, only accessible from the properties who own them, and they are designed to lift your boat up well above the water where it can be stored under cover and well out of harms way. Probably a good anti-theft measure too. The lake level is severely low after several years of drought, which may render these devices inoperable - although some certainly are storing boats. We manage the first of our late afternoon celebrations on 'our' verandah, having raided the local supermarket for tasty treats. This is to become something of a ritual. Not entirely unpleasant though. Could not have picked a more atmospheric spot to compare notes. And here is a camera person. Aaah so...


Later we wander towards town and for a while we watch the local fire guys playing with their toys.


From here we stroll through the centre of town and back home as the light begins to fade. This is Lakeport. We like it fine so far.


Tomorrow we have two new people to meet. They are friends of John and Brian - our BDF mates. As they happen to live on this side of Northern Cal we will try to catch up with both in one day. Roger lives in Lower Lake, Eddie is in Napa. That makes for quite a long ride, but we have not had one for a while - might be a cool thing.

Stay tuned.


17 July 2014

Lakeport day 1. Napa for lunch.


We wake fairly early as we are eager to be out on the road to explore these new surroundings. Sunrise on Clear Lake.


They have Sheriffs in boats hereabouts. For some reason no less than 3 of them are converging on our motel this morning. Perhaps they have heard we are here.? They handle their boats well.


We hit the road as soon as all are assembled. We head north and across the top of the lake, revelling in the lush scenery.


First place we arrive at is called Lucerne. We have noticed before that the Americans use many European city names around the place. This version of Lucerne is rather modest. It does have a cafe though - so we pause for breakfast. This place has apparently just reopened after the winter layup.


Our breakfast is not a good one. Despite my previous observation about the food and the menus, this place is definitely below the radar. Just an unfortunate piece of timing really. For some reason we have attracted a bad experience - obviously a glitch in our collective vibration. We make the most of it and move on. I am most pleased that these fellow travellers are gracious in their acceptance of such things. We cannot change what has taken place, and any show of annoyance will be wasted as people who would offer such fare must seemingly have little appreciation of what 'good' looks like. We shall move on and not return. Continuing along the shoreline we enjoy a most attractive scenic route around the north side of the lake. Yes - could be somewhere around good old NZ lakes - and probably many other countries as well..


We reach the eastern side of the lake and turn south toward Lower Lake. This is where we will find Roger, and having followed the directions he gave me we finally ride into his yard. What a surprise. Roger has a number of old Citroens - rare enough elsewhere - totally out of it in America. My experience of Citroen owners outside of France is that they tend to be different thinkers. Roger certainly fits the picture, and he has plenty other unusual machines to boot. We are loving the exhaust treatment on this one..


Besides this lovely estate, Roger has a convertible version of a 2CV - I imagine this to be the rarest of the rare. There are spurious motorcycles and other rare cars, many needing attention which Roger intends to give them in due course. We recognise 'projects' when we see them. Roger has many - but they will keep him occupied for as long as he wants.


A nice finishing touch on the 2CV coupe..


Now - try and figure this vehicle out. It is a working 3 wheeler - its main purpose was to utilise the hide from an old family cow - which it used as the outer body covering. Might not offer much weather protection - but we have not seen much weather up here..


If that is not enough - here we have a self-propelled picnic table. Steve was more intrigued by the wonderfully preserved pickup, and there were many more examples of original type vehicles on the property - but to spend the time that a project such as this one must have entailed tells much of Roger. I suspect that he is a bloody genius, and yet he lives a quiet life out here in Lower Lake having fled the city some years back. Roger is the most colourful character we have met so far - I wish we had time to explore more of his amazing inventions, but we still have to ride down to Napa to meet up with Eddie, so we say our farewells. Go well mate.


We head south retracing the route that we arrived from Calistoga on our way in. Just lovely roads to ride - so glad we are not in cars.


As we approach Napa the traffic gets really heavy and we are reduced to a crawl. I am aware that there is another road parallel to the main one, and it is favoured by motorcyclists. I lead the crew east and am fortunate enough to intersect with said road within a few miles. One of my more fortunate navigational flukes to date. We speed on down toward Napa and are virtually unimpeded all the way to the edge of the city. A brief stop at a gas station to check our bearings then we make our way into town to find 'Zuzu'.


Eddie proves to be another human worthy of special mention - I have heard that he is a very fast rider and am quietly pleased that we do not have to try and keep up with him amongst the heavy traffic hereabouts. Right now he is doing his day job at Zuzu and soon has us all seated together despite a steady stream of clientele. This is a popular venue. We order a variety of drinks - craft beers included - he suggested same in an email we swapped earlier. Not only have they got the super rare 'Pliny the Elder', he shouts the round. We let him choose a selection of food for us to sample, and are treated to some very select plates that we would have had no idea about without his input. Possibly this is our most adventurous tasting of foods yet. None failed to impress. The camera flash manages to make us all look at our best..


A few of the beers on offer. I could do an awful lot of this..


After a great time here we prepared to depart. Eddie did the honours with the camera so Sue could finally be in a shot. Nice job Eddie. This was a great place to visit made all the more significant by knowing Eddie. Small wonder it is such a popular spot. I felt a little guilty that we were leaving Eddie to work whilst we still had a 100 mile ride home. Cool to be us..! Cheers Eddie - another person who has shown us a great deal of generosity simply for our connection to biking and those we have already met. This is how it works. It is universal. Trust we shall be able to do the same.


This is a remarkable photograph. We six have spent the last 10 weeks travelling in close proximity over many thousands of miles. We have endured the arduous and annoying facets of such a journey, and yet we are so happy to be here together. Sue and I have known all the others for many years - they have only known each other for 10 weeks. I thought that because I loved all of the friends who came here - that they would love each other. Here is the proof that my feelings were right. We could all be at each others throats by now - but instead we are having a superb time together. I am so loving that fact. Thank you my friends - most sincerely. You have made this such a memorable event.

We find our way back to Silverado Trail and enjoy another fast ride back to Calistoga. Just like home - most drivers do not venture away from the main drag - so any alternate routes are usually up for grabs with very little annoying traffic. Works here wonderfully, and we are back in Calistoga in no time. Ann and Brent are heading directly home from here - Steve and I will head back over to the Triumph Dealers at Santa Rosa to collect a few parts we are taking home to NZ. It also gets us a longer ride over some twisty road we are familiar with - and some we are not. We spot a cool sign in a vineyard - should put a few trespassers off..


Our 'long way home' is great despite the after work traffic. We lose our way momentarily but soon find the telltale signs with our highway number. Without maps or gps we find our way to Santa Rosa Triumph (yeah - and BMW..) and they have all the stuff we ordered. This really will be our last visit here and yet we feel like old clients already. We have found no fault with the service offered here, and the parts guys especially have been keen to talk about our trip and other bike stuff. Top marks you guys. We now hit the 101 north - along with a good percentage of the San Fran commuters heading home from work today. The numbers thin as we get further north, until we are past the commuter zone and nearing our turnoff point called 'Hopland'. Sounds promising. From here we turn due east to head over the hills back to Lakeport. What a great little road we discover. Twisty as all hell but with wonderful road surface on the way up. The surface then deteriorates badly on the way down - usually a sign that some other body is responsible for paying the maintenance costs. Still fabulous though, and noted for a revisit. We arrive back at the motel late afternoon and are greeted by a most fabulous sight. There is a Grumman Albatross flying boat cavorting about in the lake directly out from the motel. It transpires that some of the other guests here are a Bollywood movie crew, and they are shooting an action movie right here. The star of the show here is this beautiful old 1940's amphibian - in excellent condition from all aspects, and with (oh joy..) radial engines to boot. What a delight.


We watch the action from 'our' verandah while we enjoy tonights culinary delights and drink Californian wine. I am in my element observing a WWII vintage aircraft performing its tricks as if in response to my own private request - and these guys are really putting it through the hoops. Obviously movie dollars talk when you are renting out an aircraft. At the end of the days action, the pilot makes a low pass and disappears in the direction of Sacramento, where the internet says this plane operates from. I have already read up its history and it is one of the few lucky survivors. They are too expensive to run and maintain for most these days - so some movie dollars will help keep this bird flying for a while longer. Amen to that.


I am thoughtful tonight. We have had a 250 mile day simply for the pure pleasure of it. We need not have gone anywhere at all, but the road still beckons, even after two months and 10,000 miles. New friends we have met today - very different characters indeed but both extremely welcoming and hospitable. More to the point, they were 'interesting'. And interested. That makes a huge difference when you are vagabonds on the road and just wanting some contact to reassure you that this is real and of great value. The people we have met here are absolutely tops, and that we did not bargain on. What a bonus. For myself - and above this almost - I had made it clear that I was looking for an experience of an old aircraft flying. What we got was like a personal display - involving the sort of antics you would never see at an airshow. Steve knows that I am good at finding stuff. He has observed me in action. This however, has to be somewhat over the top. Who cares. You put it out there and you get what comes back. I am so smug tonight you would hate me...

Wish you could be here.


18 July 2014

Lakeport day 2. I wake to the sound of radial engines as our new favourite American icon arrives for a days activity. The Grumman has reversible pitch props so it can manoeuvre on water with some dexterity, and its pilot certainly knows how to handle it. I am out of bed in a flash and watching the action. We have no idea how many days this bird will appear here, but it is pure gold while it lasts. Imagine 'Warbirds over Wanaka' arriving at your front door every morning.! How would you be.? Astounding. After half an hour of drifting they fire it up again to reposition. It sounds like this. If you love the sound of a Harley (topical..) - this sounds like 10 of them in harmony..

Today we will be staying put. Apart from being totally mesmerised by this fabulous machine, there is to be a big concert lakeside today, so we will hang around in order to catch the action so to speak. It is always a privilege to be able to observe local life going on - especially the events that are intended to raise the happiness level in any way. This will be such, so we want to immerse ourselves in it. For the time being, I for one will be devouring the sights and sounds that are unfolding on our doorstep. Thanks Bollywood - thanks America. This is so cool.


The movie crew is very animated and they have assembled quite a range of water craft with which to both film and manage the scenes they are attempting here. It is a bit of a character play for us - having seen a few such things before we are appreciative of how many facets come into play when trying to capture just one piece of the action. For us it is all a picture show - and we just have to be here to get the benefit. Ace.!


Much of the action remains close to the motel - so we have front row seats from which to view all that is on offer. Quite spectacular. Our seats on the verandah are kept warm today.


Here we have the appreciative audience amusing themselves between the action sequences. The wine bottle is of course - merely a prop...


As the afternoon progresses, we wander along the lakefront to the concert venue where it is all in full swing. Plenty peeps about to enjoy the ambience.


Sue's camera catches us all in a pensive mood, I suspect our minds are on the posssibilities for tomorrow, but today is going fine down here by the lake.


This is an idyllic place. We can see why folks come back year after year - we have heard them arranging such in the motel office. I suspect we would too if we were California locals. I feel I shall return to this place on another trip. Such beauty is worth revisiting.


We have decided that tomorrow we will explore all the way around the lake. There is at least one town we have not yet visited on the north shore, so we will include that in our circumnavigation of the whole perimeter.

Do join us...


19 July 2014

Lakeport day 3. Exploring Clear Lake.


We are off early to explore our local environs. By 'local' - this lake is 30 odd miles long - and there are a number of towns around the periphery. We are in Lakeport. Heading east around the top are Nice and Lucerne, then a long span to Clearlake Oaks which is at the far eastern end of the northern shore. From there the road goes south past the town of Clearlake which is the original settlement here. I am led to believe it has a colourful past which involves the Hells Angels, so it seems entirely fitting that we should head there first. We take the southern route - simply because we have taken the northern one two days ago. We travel all the way to Lower Lake - at the southeast corner - then head north until we find the turnoff to Clearlake. Almost immediately we are in an urban area with rather old infrastructure but with a definite charm to it. This feels like the place where lakeside dwellers first came in numbers. It has a lovely outlook on the lake, and feels like a holiday place more so than Lakeport where we are based. We have decided to brunch here, so cruise up and down a few times. I spot these guys..


.. and figure this must be the place to be. It is a Diner - places that always please with their decor and links to a happy road era of American culture. This one seems quite new - so maybe they are making a comeback. Besides the two Rods that get my attention, there are a number of other tasty cars - obviously a gathering of like-minded mates. Another car pulls in and I get talking to the driver. He built this car many years back with all the right period bits. It still looks just right. Cool chap.


This is how a period Diner tends to look - so hats off to the people who recreated this one. It has a very unique atmosphere when you walk in. Small wonder these Rodders choose to meet here.


We chose to sit outside in the shade - already the temps are reaching less-than-comfortable limits. There is also a nice view across the lake to the southern shore, and it seems there is a road there that we could take. Exploration is fun.


The food is fine and we take our time before leaving. Cool place. We decide to follow the shoreline north to Clearlake Oaks as it seems to be a choice piece of Lakefront and we do not wish to miss anything.


A lovely little road and on our way down into Clearlake Oaks we are treated to highly coloured lake water created by some chemical deposits. Magic.


We refuel at Clearlake Oaks then head south to meet the western highway at Lower Lake. We are not entirely sure where we should turn off this road, but suddenly spot an exit that looks right. Brent and Ann have already shot past it - but see us indicate to make the turn. They choose to continue rather than retrace their steps, and we do not see them again until back at the ranch. We follow Steve and Andi around this majestic lake.


It feels very expansive in the flesh, and I remind myself that this lake is virtually the same size as the Isle of Man. Funny that thought should occur to me. And yet not. This trip has been every bit as inspiring as my visit to the Island in 1981. Only this trip has been far more comfortable..


The main drawcard around this lake appears to be boating. Fair enough. The strange thing is that it is the middle of the holiday season and yet so many tasty holiday homes appear deserted. Covered boats laying idle. If this is still the impact of the recession it has been a decade of decay. Sobering thought.


This is our last stop, after which we complete our orbit of the lake and head home to the motel. Our new favourite friend is still cavorting about in front of the motel with numerous attendees in evidence. What a blast..


We enjoy another lovely gathering on the verandah - food and drink and fine company. We are well aware that our time together is drawing to a conclusion. There will still be many miles to travel - but not together. For now we ignore that fact.


Cheers all.


20 July 2014

Lakeport day 4. Hopland for breakfast.


Today is our last day here together, which means this afternoon will be spent cleaning bikes, packing luggage, and for Ann and Brent - their first attempt at carrying everything on their bikes with no van. It will all be new. It is a beautiful morning here at Lakeport.


When Steve and I returned from Napa via the Triumph guys at Santa Rosa, we found a cool little hilly road from Hopland to here. We have found a cafe at Hopland on google maps, so we are heading there for breakfast - back over the cool road. Perfect morning. Perfect company. This is bliss. Or close to it. As we ascend we get a fleeting glimpse of our lake in the distance.


This twisty little road busily reverses itself frequently - so you fire out of one corner all banked over - only to arrive at the next going the other way.

Here is a small sample.


Down the far side it flattens out into lovely vineyards and dry roadside grass - something akin to north Canterbury in mid-summer.


We arrive at a road junction, and as Ann and Brent have not been this way before, we pause to let them catch up so we will all be on the same station. Cool watching other bikes arrive..


On any given day, some riders feel like going faster than others. Today, Steve and I have the bit between the teeth. Throughout the tour it has been this way - some in cruise mode and some speedsters. Quite fun really, and nobody trying to prove anything - just how the mood takes you. From here we follow the quickest route to Hopland and soon arrive at the Bluebird Cafe. Seems rather fitting seeing as how we have come from the Skylark Shores Motel.


Hopland features some typically American architecture - very quaint and always pleasing to behold - but this morning I am more focussed on the sight of these four bikes. They will never be seen together again. Steve's and mine will be shipped to New Zealand soon - the other two will likely sold here in the USA. It seems heraldic of closing pages. The end of something great that happened here in America in 2014. Namely us. Damn - we were good.! It really has been cool to be us..


We get the breakfast. Many people are here for breakfast. Typical that you have no idea until you step inside - how many folks are here. The street is deserted, but the place is full of life. The food is abundant and good. Forget your stories about deep fried this and that - you get whatever you want here - and it is big.


I think I ordered the "middle-aged spread". Seems I got it anyway. We all put on weight in America - despite our best efforts to avoid just that. The food just sounds so good that you order everything. Its certainly cheap enough - and because you have been sharing main courses for dinner, you think you will get away with it - but no. Heaps of carbs here, and you simply are not using enough muscles on that bike to use up anywhere near the calorific intake you are enjoying. You are going to put on weight. Get with the plan or be miserable. We got with the plan. Leaving Hopland we head back across the river in order to follow the Old River Road north to Calpella and the 20 East to Upper Lake, rather than just take the 101 with all its attendant traffic. Busy roads up here. The Old River Road on the other hand is a deserted piece of country splendour, and we eagerly devour it. However - it is here that we discover just how susceptible we still are to old behaviours. We meet roadworks. Traffic lights stop us at a small humpbacked bridge. Even though there is no other traffic, we pause at the lights where the workings have rendered the right lane inoperable. When the lights turn green, we follow the signs and exit the bridge on the left side of the road. It is then nearly half a mile before Brent who is leading suddenly realises his mistake and swerves back to the right side of the road. Ann follows - as do we. I am astounded that we could fall for this simple trap so far into our journey. There was no other driver here to see it - but we still fell for it. Wow. You really have to keep using the frontal lobe and remain alert for such things. No issues here - but we know we got it wrong all the same. Dang! After Calpella we head east toward Upper Lake, and capture glimpses of the American holiday scene taking place. These guys have not been sharing main courses...


We take diverging routes but all end up back at Lakeport within minutes of each other. It is time to clean the bikes and we do so happily. These machines have transported us safely and speedily around a huge continent. We owe them some care and attention. We also understand that things will go much more smoothly during the export/import process if the bikes turn up spotless, and do not invoke any need for steam cleaning. Steve attends to detail..


We will be sad to leave this beautiful place in Northern California - it has been all we could have imagined and then some. Lovely surroundings..


These bikes have never been so clean in our ownership until now..


We hold our last celebratory meeting on the verandah. I have a strong idea that I will return here - with whom I know not. It is just such a good place to be. I do love these guys.!


It is sunset over Lakeport. The camera cannot capture what I feel about this scene. A week ago we did not know this place even existed. Tonight we have heavy hearts about leaving it. All that has taken place here has been good. Nobody in our group could feel otherwise. We are extremely grateful. Thank you Lakeport.


And thank you to the wonderful staff who served us so well here - especially the Manager who made it possible for us to extend our stay several times as we began to appreciate what a jewel we had come to. She even moved other guests so that we could stay in our rooms. We thank you - you went way beyond the usual limits of service. How lucky we are to have been here. Namaste.


Tomorrow we shall leave here and begin our journey home. Our lovely companions will begin their journey to Colorado to stay another month with friends. This has all been amazing and we feel that things could not have gone better. To say "Thanks to all concerned.." feels inadequate, but we mean it sincerely. You guys are simply the best. America is a most friendly place and one you can feel relaxed in. That may come as a surprise. It did to us..

Much respect.


21 July 2014

Lakeport California to Santa Cruz California.


We are shipping out. Ann and Brent are heading east - having secured all their worldly's on the two bikes. That in itself is quite a feat. The farewell committee assemble. This really is an emotional withdrawal.


See you later buddies - have a great ride out there.


Sad to see them go, but we have no time to dwell on it. We pack up the remaining luggage in the van and prepare to leave. We will be heading down to Brent's place in Alameda to collect Gary's bike which we will take turns to ride back to LA. We have discussed the route from here, and agree that the easiest road for the van to negotiate - seeing it has two bikes to pull as well as 4 occupants - is to retrace our steps of yesterday back to Hopland via Upper Lake - then follow the 101 all the way to San Fran - a route we are all familiar with now. We take our last look out on the lake..


Promises to be a lovely day - but then - they all are. With no further ceremony we are on the road and make good time to the 101. Steve is driving and I will do the first shift on Gary's Sprint. I get a text from John Bock who proposes riding out of San Fran with us - down to Alices Restaurant. This is a namesake of the Arlo Guthrie version, but is a favourite haunt of bikers and rodders being at the south end of Skyline Boulevard - apparently a good ride. Sounds brilliant and will be new roads for us - with the benefit of a guide. Fantastic. We make it to Alameda with no missed turns, and find Dorothy at home. We get the bike out and prepare to leave for the last time. Dorothy discovers that John is coming for a ride and decides she will join us too. This is so cool. Wonderful friends we have only briefly got to know, and they will share this last ride out of the city. Makes it a much more attractive scenario than just drifting off by ourselves. Thanks guys - you are the best. We gas up and hit the 880 south. We will be crossing the San Mateo bridge across to the San Fran side of the harbour but John is giving clear signals of where we turn, so no dramas. John up ahead..


.. and as you can see in my mirror - Dorothy behind us on the Tiger. Presumably the van is also back there somewhere with Steve trying hard to catch up.


The greater part of the San Mateo crossing is a causeway rather than a bridge. For a while it just appears to be a motorway..


After which it is more obviously a causeway - with good views of the city to the north..


Then finally it is a bridge - with tolls - from which you drop right into San Mateo proper, which is just south of San Fran International Airport. In case you were wondering.


We bore on through to pause at Crystal Springs Reservoir to let the van catch up. Quite a lot of traffic through here, but most of it is heading straight on over to Half Moon Bay. Maybe we will check that place out next time around.


The van arrives within minutes, then with Steve safely installed in my mirror we are off again and heading up to where Skyline Boulevard begins on the crest of these hills.


John sets the pace - his bike looks pretty nimble compared to our touring steed, but we cling to his tail through the swervery.


Every time we look back - Dorothy is right there. No slouch on that tall bike - she had sounded some reservations about it initially, but she sure seems to have the measure of it now.


This is one of those roads that you would really like to know well. Lots of other bike traffic around - bet there are some great dices up here. John is often warning us of the dangers of "Squids" in places such as this - I checked the term in the Urban dictionary - "A young motorcyclist who overestimates his abilities, boasts of his riding skills when in reality he has none." Yep - gotta stay clear of them. In far too short a time we are lining up outside Alices Restaurant. Cool place indeed.


I had no idea what this bike was - assumed it was probably of Japanese origin - but should have known that John would have something different. It is an MZ - probably a Skorpion by the looks. Interesting choice. Cool trio.


A few beers here and I am feeling great. Just to be able to sit and chat with these two is something new - until now all our meetings have involved many people, so this is very relaxed. Of course the time passes in a trice, and Dorothy feels she should get back to work. She will head back the way we arrived. John will head out to the coast with us then rturn north as we turn south. We appreciate a few more miles together. Cheers Dorothy - until next time..


We continue south with John and the road finally begins to turn west towards the coast. This part of the road has recently been resurfaced and is in top condition - much to John's amazement. It used to be kinda hazardous. We enjoy a lovely cruise down to San Gregorio where we stop outside the general store and across the road from an old stagecoach stop. Lots of history always in evidence and these guys know it all. I am most impressed by our new friend John and we sit and chat by the roadside.


The van arrives and this turns into an impromptu gathering in the middle of seemingly nowhere. Perhaps more for this reason than any other - this has etched in my memory as a special event. Much cool to the group.


We reluctantly say goodbye to John and continue a few miles to the coast proper, where he turns north and we south. A brief handshake and this new friendship is on ice until who knows when. It is a strange part of being the traveller. You meet significant people who you just know are worthy of everything you could share - but still - you are on the move and it is just a temporary thing. Perhaps that is why it seems so special - but I choose to think otherwise. I feel that I am a good judge of character - and all of these wonderful humans we have interacted with are so much on our wavelength - or we on theirs. There is a bond here that goes much deeper than our brief encounters would logically explain. This is what I came here for - guess I am getting it. I am hoping the others are too. The coast road is magnificent and we muse on the fact that we have missed a good part of it from here north to San Fran. Once again - perhaps that is reserved for the next chapter. For now we enjoy the new spectacle of this lovely Pacific coast.


We arrive at Santa Cruz and head for our motel. It presents itself in quick time - down towards the boardwalk. Not your flashest abode, but we manage to find spaces within it that suit us. It features some fairly unique decor and we shall remember it for that - as well as the weird couple with the dog in a pram..


We settle in and head for the boardwalk. It seems to be the biggest thing hereabouts. No shortage of bods heading that way too.


This place is like the biggest fairground you have seen. And it is permanent. Hard to believe people will keep coming even after they have seen the best it has to offer - but they are here in droves. Most of them are eating. They are eating the kind of food that we came here to avoid. It does seem to be effecting their size. It matters not - we came to see, and that we are doing. We do not need to bite it. Sue wants to get on the scary rollercoaster rides, but the queue is about half an hour long, so we dissuade her. Sorry mate..


We wander from one end to the other, marvelling at the endless sidestalls and the cheap but bad food. Crowds of people all the way. Perhaps they stay until after dark. We will walk in the sunset instead.


So many of the towns we have visited have a flavour. Santa Cruz is definitely in this category. Lots of energy down the waterfront, and it is a carnival atmosphere. I suspect that this is what draws people more than the food and the scary rides. It is an energy that people want to be close to. It feels like life. At least - the kind of life that they feel like they are missing. Being a part of something exciting. Always draws a crowd. We brought our own version with us. This really is life, and we are living it as fully as we can. New places every day for us. America - you should try this. There are no places in America that you need to be afraid of. They all have good people living good lives. Get out there and taste it.! And love the sunset...

We head downtown and find a nondescript Restaurant of the Thai variety. We have no idea what their standard of food is, but they totally floor us with good service and faultless and exquisite food. What a bonus. We return to our motel feeling very happy about our brief Santa Cruz experience. A good place and a good time. Say no more.

Thanks to everyone we had anything to do with today. For whatever reason it has been a stupendous day - when we were feeling a bit glum about our tour coming to an end. Great save. Great place. Great love for you here. Thanks. Us.


22 July 2014

Santa Cruz California to Morro Bay California.


Our ride out of Santa Cruz heading south takes us past acres and acres of crops. Besides cabbage and other vegetables there are strawberries by the mile, and we are treated to the blissful smell of berries for many miles. I am so impressed that they still grow berries out here in the fields in good looking soil. We have been enjoying these berries through many states, but now we are reassured that they still owe their parentage to natural growing methods. That water you see being liberally sprinkled is rapidly outstripping the desirability of crude oil in California..


Stuff you just see by the roadside. There is something every day - but who would you ask..?


We have ridden this road before - on the way back from visiting the Vetters in Carmel. However, today we wander into Monterey - and are impressed by both the look and the feel of the place. We stop to look for a foodie experience, and grin at this guy who has the smallest one in America. Pickup that is..


We found a Subway - so we shared one of their reliable compositions there, but moved on for a coffee. In short time we found this wonderful place..


This place has atmosphere in spades - and it seems to encapsulate the kind of feeling I might have thought would fit with a place like Monterey. Simply a name I have heard in songs from the 60's/70's, but a very atmospheric one. This cafe seems a bit pretentious, with several staff to each customer - but they are charming, and their service and their offerings are faultless. We are very much impressed and wanting to preserve these images as being a special place to remember from our tour.


There are a lot of kayaks out in the water and it is calm despite the rather brooding skies. We have some reservations about the weather today - but although there have been dark clouds in evidence, there has not been any rain thus far. Steve and Andi on the bike today - so we are immune. Still rather be on the bike though..


Moving through Monterey we make the most of the town streets before heading around the waterfront to experience life in the suburbs.


Monterey is a peninsula of fairly small proportions, so it was possible for us to ride right around the edge - we thought. Starting on the north side just out of the business sector, we explore the waterfront properties.


Very pretty place. and typically American styles to the houses here. Little surprise - this really is America after all. California even. Stuff we have seen in the movies without really knowing where it was. Now we do. And we like it much more in the flesh.


Some party animals around here by the looks. We can appreciate that. If I lived here I would want all my friends to come and party. Preferably on motorbikes. Not sure these folk would share my preferences - and perhaps their properties would be worth some reasonably large sums. All the more reason..


Around the south side of the peninsula we suddenly find a large area of private property. They want money for us to even drive around to look - so we politely decline and make a legal U turn. I'm sure our GPS really loves us right now. It seems a shame that a significant part of this coastline is semi 'out-of-bounds', but thats how it is here. I guess it is the same at home to some extent - but this must be worth bazillions. We would settle for just the tax content.! We hit the coast road again and enjoy the vistas afforded by this very cool road.


I have remarked before, how well the Americans build structures. The bridges are not just utilitarian devices for spanning gaps in the topography - they are wonderfully presented ornaments that serve to convey traffic and delight the eye at the same time. Well done you guys - it really serves to mark one's progress in a very stylish manner.


It is hard to describe the sheer expanse of the vista here. It is the same Pacific coast that we enjoy at home, but this version is more spectacular if only for the scope provided by being elevated on these cool roads. There are also geographic features like the hilly outcrop which features a lighthouse and various old buildings on our horizon here.


A few miles further we reach a famous restaurant I was told to look out for. This area is known as 'Big Sur' and is a very photogenic part of the coast highway. The "Nepenthe" restaurant has a long history and is perched above some of the most magnificent views of this piece of California. You simply can not drive past without looking at this place.


The walk in is reminiscent of NZ bush, and considering our location on the west coast facing the pacific - it is the reverse of our experience where we have the Pacific on our east coast and the Tasman on the west. This is a suitable blend of both.


The restaurant is perched high on cliffs overlooking this scenic coastline - and it is easy to see why great numbers of people flock here to enjoy food and drink in this wonderful location. The restaurant itself is very atmospheric..


.. but the view is to die for. Luckily - we didn't. Nor did we eat - as the place was packed out - being the summer holiday season and all - a few weeks in which all and sundry holiday at the same time. Feast or famine. We decided to simply look - and to look for our next food further down the line. I just devoured the ambience.


I have no idea how the food rates here - but I imagine a ham sandwich would seem absolutely incredible in front of this view.


We hit the road again - wishing we could simply relax here for hours - but the crowds make it unattractive to do so. Another comparison - how lucky we are at home to have such a small fraction of the population numbers to have to share such places with at any given time. I have never seen a place like this though. A little further south and we come to another ornate piece of roading magic - a rock slide area with a protective roof - much like the structures on the way up to the Otira in Arthurs Pass. This one is rather decorative.


We arrive at the entrance to Hurst Castle. This is a big attraction hereabouts. We drive in to the visitor centre and massive carpark. We can see the castle on the skyline some distance above us, but it seems that there is no traffic allowed past here. Sue checks it out. $50 per person to take the minibus up the hill. We confer and decide that several hundred dollars would be better spent elsewhere. But we stop outside the carpark and get the photo..


Back on the road and the next town we arrive at is called Cambria, and as we have missed lunch thus far - we decide that this should be the place. We have to detour from the highway to enter the main street, and find a nice little township that we can wander on foot. Steve and I had previously been discussing music for some reason, and the Moody Blues came up. While we are checking the available eateries we pause in the doorway of the West End Family Restaurant. They are playing the Moody Blues. This must be the place. Lunch is consumed - nice fish and chips - and we share it. Excellent.


Back to the highway and we are soon in sight of Morro Bay, with a large Power Station dominating the shoreline. Turns out to be an abandoned one. Shame it is taking prime location on the beachfront. There is a huge headland at the entrance to the harbour - no doubt offering good shelter from onshore winds. This is a pretty little place and we soon find a motel near the harbour. We visit a supermarket and have a look around. We even spot a Hillman Husky van parked in a sidestreet. Wow. Must be rare here. Very long beach which looks to be human friendly. Certainly a lot of people at the harbour end when we visit.


We buy food and drink for dinner and have a joint meal in the motel room. Nice to be together here and so much enjoying this coastline. We attempt to banish the thoughts of the end approaching.

Ends are just new beginnings. Cheers.


23 July 2014

Morro Bay California to Santa Barbara California.


Wow. Here we are feeling despondent that our trip is approaching its end, and yet we are experiencing new places that are equal to anything we have seen thus far. Morro Bay feels like the kind of place you could easily spend a week in, and still be finding new stuff. We have one night - so we are pushing the envelope to see as much as we can. Sue and I are up early to head down to the harbour hoping to catch sight of some sea otters that we saw briefly yesterday. There are lots of people walking in the early morning, but none seem quite as interested in the wildlife as we are. This is amazing. Down at the harbour entrance we have a grandstand view of the enormous abandoned Power Station right here on the foreshore.


Yup - that whole thing is deserted - must be too expensive to pull it down. The reason we are here though is the cluster of small beings in the water to the left. Sea Otters pick up rocks from the sea floor, place them on their chests while floating on their backs, and use them to crack open shellfish that they have also recovered. Many of their actions seem very human, and they are a reflection of our own evolution for us to marvel at. Just brilliant.


Morro Bay is a small coastal town of the type that every New Zealander would identify with. Fishing boats, local shops selling local produce, restaurants looking for tourists, the whole thing. Right here. Even looks familiar.


We cruise the main street and feel like we want to stay on, but we have a time schedule. LA beckons. On the way back to our motel we pass this lovely old Diner - now a front for a Demo crowd. It seems rather short-sighted. These places are rare now, and on the cusp of being highly desirable again. The revival of Route 66 is casting new light on such places.


We pack up and hit the road. As we negotiate the way to the coast highway we come across these Dudes. I wave but they are preoccupied. Possibly with their own awesomeness.


Heading south we are treated to a broader view of the area we have been a part of overnight. It certainly looks like a place worthy of more exploration.


The greater part of this coastline looks like a paradisical location. Its proximity to LA ensures that it will have plenty of tourist trade - either for long weekends or summer holidays. Why would you not? Compared to LA - this looks like absolute escapism.



We pass through numerous commercial areas that seem to blend into one. Whilst they are extremely atmospheric, you have never seen them before. They look like some place you have seen in the movies, but on another level - you know they are not. You could live here quite happily and be a part of the beach scene or the commercial support for it - but you now know that there are endless places like this. How could you pick any one? Most probably because some other thing brought you here. A job, or a lover, or a relative. That would get you here - and then you would think - I could live here too. And you would. All lovely places, and they strike a chord with us travellers from a small Pacific Island on the far end of the planet. We have places like this too - and yet they are not like this. They do not have such a gigantic population nearby. They do not have the same focus on a capitalistic lifestyle. Some might see that as a more pure form of human existence, but I am finding that America manages a very attractive form of captalism. We have managed to make our dollars go a long way on this trip. Fuel is cheap and that has a trickle down effect on just about everything else. We have all come out below budget after nearly three months in this vast continent. We have covered more miles in three months than we would normally cover in a year at home - and yet it has been entirely affordable. I am seriously considering a return visit even before this one is over. America rocks.! As do the people who live here. Thanks guys - you da best.!


We see vast areas of agriculture once again - this has been a common theme on this coast. There is a shortage of water for many areas - so it is good to see this natural approach to food production is getting some priority. We applaud heartily, and we have tasted the results. Excellent food here - despite popular misgivings.


This is big scale here..


Sue finds a picture that suggests I have a presence here. Lol.


Joe's garage. Or similar. Put your own name to it. Alive and well in a neighbourhood near you..


More agriculture. It may seem superfluous to you, but in this world where the dollar rules all, it is most reassuring to see such an investment in real food and on a scale that is quite mind-blowing. We are in total agreement that this is the right thing to do. Big ups for this California.


We arrive at Santa Barbara and revel in the coolness of this place.


Know what I mean John.?


Nice lineup of oil rigs on the horizon. They seem out of place on this idyllic coastline. Gotta keep that dollar rolling though..


Santa Barbara meets mainline Florida. Yay. We love American Pop Culture.


After a prolonged period of searching we find a suitable place to stay. Everything here is extremely pricey and/or booked out, so it takes a while. The final solution is something that sounds like an apartment, but is in fact a cheapo motel sort of thing. Perfectly ok for our needs tonight. We settle in then go find a supermarket, after which we make a couple of missed approaches for a suitable eating place, but eventually find this.


Santa Barbara cool. Love it. We had a nice meal and a pleasant evening in all. Compared to some of the places we have stayed in America, we realise that we would have liked more like this. Coastal sweet air and a general level of excitement on the street. Lots of people looking for a good time. Contrasts steeply with the disgruntled souls of Indiana. They should come here. They could then die happy. We shall not die at all, but just continue on in this party mode.. hahaha. Sunset on the streets of Santa Barbara should be a prerequisite for anyone ever considering anything at all. Grateful grateful grateful.


Our evening ends with drinks on the lawn at our temporary abode. Not too bad at all, and cheap at that. We are happy and together. Says a lot really.


This was Santa Barbara. I have often heard the name and associated a feeling with it. Whatever I thought - it was nothing like this, and yet it was. The feeling was the same, but I could never have imagined the pictures that I now have in my mind. You need to come here. For no other reason than it is one of those places on the planet where you feel good. Like - really good. No reason I can think of other than that there are a great number of souls who come here to do just that. Feeling good is one of those human things that can be amplified by others with the same mindset. We felt good here, and are most appreciative of all who participated.

Good bastards.

I will drink to that.

Maybe I did already..


24 July 2014

Santa Barbara California to Los Angeles California.


Oh my god - we are going back to LA for the last time. I mean - from our part of the world - simply going to LA is a pretty big thing - but we have sampled it already, and it now seems like winding down. How unimaginative we are.! However - we have some miles to cover first - so lets see how it looks.

Leaving Santa Barbara is a bit sad. It was a brief visit but it felt like quite a special place. We are in the van today while Steve and Andi are on the bike. As far as the route is concerned, I had thought that we could head to Ojai - the place where we began our adventure into the twisty roads of California 3 months ago - then cut across to the grapevine and thus enter LA from the north and drop into Santa Clarita close to our motel. Steve suggests that with the heat and all, we might head south a bit earlier and arrive at Moorpark instead. Lets do that. We head south to the 150 which takes us up to Lake Casitas


From here we head in to Ojai. As soon as we leave the coast, the temperature begins rising. Just as it was in Northern California - the sea keeps the temperature under control - but a mile inland, things are different. We stop at Ojai and the petrol station attendant tells us that today will be the hottest day of the year. Oh great.! Steve and Andi are feeling it out there - but despite all - I would still be happy to be the one on the bike. The last day riding seems like an exalted position even if it is uncomfortable right now. Ojai looks a bit more exotic than I remember..


From Ojai we head to Santa Paula. Steve roars off ahead - trying to maintain some form of air cooling while we are stuck behind other traffic - although our trailer with two bikes is doing its best to keep us slow. We spy them at Santa Paula - hiding from the sun in the shade of a small tree. We stop and share water. Temp is around the 40 mark.


From Santa Paula we head east on the 126 - looking like your romantic view of an American highway going to somewhere exciting.


At Fillmore we intersect with the 23 heading south, and change direction. This road takes us up over the range of hills north of greater LA - harsh landscape complete with graffiti. You have to admire their dedication in this inhospitable climate.


We have found a quiet road into LA. Both the other routes we have travelled have been really busy, but this road is all but deserted. Excellent. Moorpark shows up fairly quickly and we stop for lunch.


After a brilliant lunch we head towards our motel - the Valley Inn for the third time. Skirting around the northern edge of the LA highway system we get this view looking back toward the Hollywood hills. Currently 41 degrees celsius.


We easily find our way to the Valley Inn as we have done this many times. The place looks pretty good in light of all we have seen. Our rooms are in much the same area as before, and they look big and well appointed. I have a cunning plan for tonight. We shall visit Sunset Boulevard. It begins like this..


Hollywood High School. Does that sound romantic.? Hey - a school is a school is a school. The kids who come here are no more fond of it than Aranui High. Possibly less when you think about it. Aranui High has something to prove..


As you might expect, there is a lot of advertising going on here.


It is sunset on Sunset Boulevard. Despite what you may think, this street goes on for absolutely miles.


There are all sorts of attractions that locals and visitors would find irresistable.


But as you continue along this atmospheric street, you discover that there are dozens of "irresistable" venues. Which one to favour..?


Even the Diners along here are much larger than life. It would have been perfect for our crew to have pulled in here on 10 bikes. We could have been the Celebs you know.. hahaha.


The people you see on Sunset Boulevard are just the same people you see anywhere in America. Hopeful. Looking for love and completion of themselves. Why those most desirable human things might be more accessible here is an enigma. Probably they are not. But - why would you buy a lotto ticket from a busy outlet? It is a numbers game - and here the numbers appear to be in your favour. You pays your money, and you takes your chance.


For us travellers - it is a different game. We have listened to Steely Dan singing - "drive west from Sunset to the sea..", and we wish to do just that. It seems super romantic. What we do not appreciate is the amount of time we will take to reach the sea. It is dark by the time we exit onto the Pacific Coast Highway.


We are looking for somewhere to eat which takes us to Santa Monica, but a real traffic snarl there sends us back to Sunset where we settle for Subway. Our romantic view of things dissolves into a matter of necessity. While we manage to at least replicate that particular line from a favourite song, we do not find a pot of gold at the end of it. Actually, it is rather mundane, but we did it. Yay for us. When you find yourself in such places, you really need to explore the envelope. Just a bit. We have loved America greatly, and we will not let this small anomaly put us off in any way. On another day it might have been totally magic..

Goodnight America. Goodnight LA.


25 July 2014

Los Angeles California. We awake in familiar surroundings. The Valley Inn, Mission Hills LA. Great motel. We had misgivings when we first arrived - but they were simply due to our lack of understanding of things here. Now - it seems a haven with all that we might need. Even the rooms seem grandiose in comparison to many places that have afforded us shelter along the way. Today we need to deliver all the bikes to Foytt - the shipping agents who will convey them to New Zealand for us. The owner Pete Tate is a Kiwi and has been most agreeable to all that we have sent his way. It seems to make a big difference in that we have found a fellow countryman who knows the ropes.

All that notwithstanding, we must make the run to Carson City where Foytt live, and that is a long cross-city haul for us. We enjoy the most that the free breakfast has to offer us, then prepare to head west to the port area. I am on Garys bike this morning whilst the others are safely ensconced in the van. The trailer with two bikes aboard makes the van a bit sluggish, so we cause the rest of the brisk traffic flow some impediment. Tough. We are on a mission. Nearing the Foytt depot we meet two Harley riders. It seems somewhat auspicious that they should be here - right now - to remind us how not to do it. Something they do with their feet! Try riding around America like this boyz..


Interestingly - we did see road signs in places which forbade riding with these handlebars. We presumed it was to do with high winds - as we did meet many of those, but it is otherwise still a mystery. Before we had time to ponder on such things - we were at Foytt and the finite end of the tour. Whilst it is sad that our time has evaporated in a maze of highways, byways, driveways and walkways, we have seen and learned so much. About ourselves, about each other, and about America. We seem to have a much better opinion of America than many Americans do. It has been a total blast and we could not have been treated better. Wow.!

Here we are. The plan worked and we have completed our circuit of North America in amazing style. All are safe, and the vehicle arrangements are all in hand. I feel most gratified.


The last 3 bikes are delivered to the shipping warehouse. Steve's, mine and Gary's. All have proven to be reliable and capable mounts - easily up to all that we required. The luggage carrying capacity was brilliant, and the fuel economy legendary. We were averaging 59 miles per US gallon, two up, panniers and tankbag, at around 70-80mph. Our daily fuel bill was a joke. Less than lunch. Even running the van between us was a pittance. Not only did everything work as we hoped - it far exceeded our expectations. I would do this again in a flash. I would very much like to begin right now...

Instead, we de-trailer the bikes and head around the back. A bit more savvy this time, we have left all bikes operable, so we can ride them rather than pushing. Once inside the warehouse we disconnect the batteries. That is all that is required before shipping - even the fuel can stay in the tanks. Various luggage and new tyres etc are attached to the bikes, all the paperwork completed, and we are off again. We decide to head to Venice Beach for lunch. It seems a place with an awful lot of wrong ways - and hardly any right ones..


The main problem with towing a trailer around America has always been the same one - parking. Parking can be at a premium in the densely populated areas, so you can be extremely lucky to find a park at all - let alone for a double-length vehicle. Parking at Venice Beach - well that is a true oxymoron. It simply does not happen. So we cruise fairly close to Venice Beach but never actually get to see it. Returning the way we have come leads us to an interesting looking cafe with copious parking nearby - so that is our decision made. This is the final lunch as it were - for Steve and Andi needed to head for the airport immediately afterwards. It is a nice little place with a good crowd, and we blend in admirably. Hard to imagine that we have spent nearly 3 months blazing around this huge country at speeds that we can only occasionally get away with at home. These 'modern' bikes are quite something. Pretty difficult to manhandle with all their bodywork, but a delight on the move, and never a bad moment for us the whole way.

We try to make lunch last, and savour this camaraderie we have shared for 90 days. A rare treat to have friends this close - every day. Thanks you two - it has been an honour and a pleasure. We are thoughtful as we head to LAX - but as usual, it becomes a major piece of concentrated effort to find the right exits and entrances until we finally park illegally at the correct terminal. Someone tries to move us on immediately, but we are out dragging bags out of the back of the van before they can get their mouthes open, so they leave us to it. A hurried farewell and we are moving away into the traffic again. Safe travels people.

Quite close to the airport is Sepulveda Boulevard. This is the very same road that our motel is in - only about 30 miles north of here and over the Hollywood Hills. I figure it might be nice just to cruise this road - despite it being the slower route. From here we have to get to John French to deliver the trailer, and also to head out for a last meal together. We meander along for some time then receive a phone call. Steve has discovered that he has left their crash helmets on the floor of the van two seats back where we can't see them. I turn us around while Sue clambers over to check. Yep - they are there alright. We felt too much under pressure at the airport to check every space. We find our way back to the airport fairly quick - we are becoming more familiar every time we venture out in this huge Metropolis. Unfortunately we end up on a higher level, and have to make a circuit before we can find our way down lower. Nice to be in a very visible vehicle though, and Steve spots us the moment we arrive. A quick handover and another handshake. Guess we were not done with you guys yet.

Off again. The afternoon is wasting away now, so we hit the 405 and get with the traffic. Lots of traffic. LA is beginning to empty for the day, and this lot are keen to get home.


If we were on the bike we would no doubt become aware that a good percentage of these drivers are smoking hootch on the way home. Not illegal here, but it still came as a big surprise to us as we used to waft past their windows and get a free hit on the move. Sheesh! Santa Monica Boulevard is another of those evocative street names that you hear in songs. We were on it briefly last night while looking for an eating place, but it was very congested and we fled. Today we do not get the option. The 405 carries us north to the 118, which heads to the 210 and then John's place. We deposit the trailer on his lawn and hand over various locks and tiedowns that we cannot carry home. We are also able to return John's petrol can - which accompanied us all the way around America. Saved a few embarassing moments. From here we head to the Robin Hood - a 'British Pub' here in LA. Easy to see why John might favour such a location. Great place, and a pleasant evening with this most agreeable chap who has done so much to make our tour a success. Cheers mate. An honour to know you.


I was pronounced fit enough to drive us all home. Mostly by me. I figure I am almost immune to fines as this time tomorrow I will be 36,000ft above the Pacific Ocean. All care - no responsibility. All the same - nice that we are not challenged, and we eventually find ourselves back at the Valley Inn with the offer of a driver to bring the van back from the airport tomorrow.

Tomorrow is going to be rather special because of a specific event. For this reason we are not too despondent that it will be our final day. Yay.

See you tomorrow then..


26 July 2014

Our journey is about to take a new turn. Actually - I would prefer to consider it simply a continuation of everything so far - but it has only been our thing in a conscious sense. The others may have benefitted anyway - I would choose to believe so - they will have their own opinions.

Steve will call it fate. I would call it deliberate creation. Many things have worked out so very well - and some of them I vocalised before they took place, which is always a source of great fun for me. Since I first began to plan this tour 4 years ago, it had occurred to Sue and I that we might get the chance to catch up with 'Abraham' while we were in America. You may have to look them up, but we have learned a lot from the teachings thereof via material that was given to us by rather wise friends in New Zealand - and their conveyed respect for it got our interest. I guess their main philosophy is one of simply letting life happen without trying to force outcomes. We have tended in that direction for some years, and it seems that this trip was in many ways possible because of that mindset. Throughout our tour and the time in California, we kept an eye on the internet for any seminars that we might find a way to attend, but they were too far away or too difficult to get to, so we simply let it go as having been a nice idea - which is exactly what they suggest as the best way to actually manifest the thing you want.

On our second to final night in LA we took one last look at their website. There is a seminar happening on Saturday morning - the last possible moment we could have ever managed to attend - and it is not only in LA - it is only 4 miles from our motel. I cannot describe the buzz we felt at this discovery. We immediately booked two tickets online - and that was it. It was happening. Crazy cool.

The venue for the seminar is the Marriott Hotel in Canoga Park. We know exactly where that is. If you have been a stranger in LA you will know that it is very rare to know exactly where anything is! Canoga Park is the location of the Cyclegear shop where we outfitted 11 excited riders and pillions before hitting the road in America. Hahaha. We drive there in the morning and register ourselves as being present - in mind and spirit - after which we grab a coffee and wait for things to begin. Much anticipation here.


The seminar is rather awe-inspiring for me. I figured that it would not be much different to just listening to recorded material I already have, as that is all recorded at such seminars, but being there is always different. It is fun and thought provoking, and I find that combination very hard to beat. We have 5 hours of intensive concentration - determined not to miss a word. It is definitely one of the highlights of the tour - you can tell by the way I have described it - but of course - there were dozens of highlights. People ask if you have one finite recollection that stands out most - but your mind then scans through a million images and memories and you realise that you just cannot do it.

I was prepared to find Niagara Falls a bit boring - having seen so many photos and heard so many other people's accounts of being there - but I was astounded by the place. Especially feeling the force of the displaced air at the bottom of the falls. But then, I was also astounded twenty times a day as I followed my buddies through miles of scenery that does not appear in any brochure, and yet took our breath away many times.

The seminar was probably made pretty big because within hours of it we were winging our way home - with many hours to sit and contemplate our thoughts. If I had the time and money - I would possibly have flown to America just to see something like this though. Ace.

We drive our trusty van back to John's place and he and Niece Charlotte drive us through downtown LA on our way to the airport. Last chance for a few pics. We started and ended in LA, but did not really consider it as a destination, so we have not really explored it at all. I guess we had a limited time here and a lot to accomplish - both arriving and departing - so we were fully occupied with that and happy to be in a quiet part of the suburbs. If you can call any part of LA 'quiet'.




John pilots us through the maze to the waiting Air New Zealand flight. A modest 27 degrees outside contrasts with the 41 degrees we arrived in two days ago. This place sure knows how to get hot. A couple more brief farewells and we watch them drive off. John will sell the van for us after repairing a few minor issues - still looking after us when we have gone. Gotta love that man.!

A new pilot takes us into the night sky and we pass the hours leaving our fabulous adventure further behind while drawing closer to home. Very mixed feelings about all of this. It seems that much has happened to change us while away, and it will be rather strange to drop back into our old life. This is in itself a strange statement - we have only been away 3 months, but it feels huge. We have packed a great deal into those 3 months - more than several years of daily life at home. What does that mean. Hopefully it means that we will be very motivated to plan the return trip. I cannot imagine that we would not - we have only scratched the surface of America.

A brief stop in Auckland and we swap planes for the final leg. It is Monday morning having lost a day to the dateline. Much more has changed besides time and date. It is cold here, and there is a good sprinkle of snow on the Alps.


I am wondering how it will feel driving on the left again. Best not to overthink it I guess. Traffic density here is a mere fraction of what we have been exposed to for these 3 months, although this lot are hardly as skillful in their road management. It looks pretty quiet down there - Christchurch and the Port Hills look so familar - hard to believe I have seen what I have seen..


We are greeted by family - relief on both sides that we all look the same. Many things to relate as we drag our bags to the car. We are expert bag-draggers now. Missing the bikes already. Ellie asks me to drive - so I am initiated right away. The first roundabout seems a bit queer, but from there it mostly makes sense. More concentration than I would have thought though. We spent so much time concentrating on being on the right over there - because your life does actually depend on it - that there is most definitely some relearning required back here. It happens a lot quicker though.

Our trip is mostly over - and yet as we all begin to meet up and compare notes - it seems that everyone is having to make some effort to be 'here' again. Not only that - but everyone wants to go back. John French was surprised that we were all still talking to each other after so much time in each other's pockets, and yet here we are wishing to do it again. I think that must be a sign of a successful trip.

I want to give huge respect to all the crew for being there - doing what was needed as we met the problems and beat them - survived the heat and the uncomfortable bits - and mostly for just getting out there and doing it day after day. It was stupendous, and I love you all. There has not been a better bunch to ride with, and I am relishing the thought of doing much more of that over the coming months as our summer approaches.

Thanks so much to all of you in America who humoured us and made our trip so memorable. We do not wish to lose contact with you - it seemed valuable at the time - I believe it still is. The way in which you allowed us to fit into your world was the key - it felt so easy and you did that for us. Much love to you guys. We promise to party harder on the return run.. hahaha.

Cheers all. Kilroy.