Part 5.
Rutland Vermont to Valentine Nebraska - but first some maintenance.
2 June 2014
Rest day in Rutland. Our best intent is that today will get us some bike maintenance time with Bud Provin at the Nickwackett Garage. This seems a legendary place to me having met it and Bud on the internet. An old family business handed down - just the perfect place for us to lurk about for a day or two. Hopefully we will not be too much of an annoyance. As it pans out - the van will not start this morning. The first night we were with Tom at Allentown the van did some strange thing and refused to start. We had a mind that it was to do with the remote locking device, and after 10 minutes of locking and unlocking it decided to play ball. Today it refuses to obey. I check google and find various references to the security system playing up - plus a number of fixes that people have found successful. All that we try fails to work. Research some more. Download the owners handbook. Discover that any security issue results in a flashing 'security' light on the dash. As we don't have one it seems we simply have a starter issue. Google confirms that the starter is on the right side and only accessible from under the vehicle. Thomas crawls under and wriggles all the wires in case one is loose. None appear so, but now the starter is working again. Success.! Cost us half a day though. Never mind - we struggle out to Pittsford and meet the oracle. First impressions are usually the right ones. Bud Provin is an extremely pleasant man. Despite his best intent - we are able to borrow some of his first class selection of tools. I can only surmise that he trusts we know what we are doing - but in fact we are also trying to save him from wasting energy on our endeavours when it is patently obvious that he has more work than he can poke a proverbial stick at. Honestly - the Nickwackett Garage has twenty or more BMW's in various states of repair, and Bud is the guy that the owners all turn to because he knows BMW's inside out. He also charges far too little.! Hard combination to beat.
Our main concern is Brent's bike which appears to have a starter problem. Getting to grips with the starter involves removing many bits of bodywork plus the petrol tank and the airfilter housing. I do all that and am finally able to remove the starter motor itself. Stripping it reveals a starter motor that has been working hard - but does not seem to be faulty. We call a halt to play late afternoon and return to Rutland. Sprint 1 - me nil. Time for more research. Lloyd has ordered oil and filters for us to do some changes while here - but no sign of it yet. Hopefully it will show up tomorrow.
This evening the research yields fruit. Seems there is a problem with this model 1050 Sprint that effects the starter clutch. Hence the starter motor is unable to effectively operate due to the clutch firstly slipping, then subsequently making very bad noises and failing to turn the motor over. This bike is displaying all those symptoms. Time for a rethink.
Play will be resumed tomorrow.
The girls went shopping today...
3 June 2014
Rutland day 2.
Another day - another dollar. It's either out or in. I rode to the Nickwackett Garage a bit earlier than the crew. That was a gifted move, as the later arrivals copped a cloudburst on the way and got soaked. I didn't do it - nobody saw me - you can't prove anything.! By the time they arrived I had Brent's bike all back together. If the problem was the starter clutch we had no parts and removing the sidecover would simply dump the engine oil. We need bits. There were however some new front discs, so the front wheel came out and the new brake discs were fitted, and the wheel refitted to the bike. All good but no cigar. Bud had his Trident at work today. It seemed appropriate that I should take a photo of this meaningful establishment with his and my bike outside.
Hey - this place has a lot of history..
There can be no mistake here - if you want your BMW fettled by the best there is in Vermont - you need to come here. We met some of the customers. This is the place.
Play is called off as lunch has intervened. We all head down the road to a local place that is obviously well known to the local guys. No small wonder - lunch and service are second to none. Suitably refreshed we return to do battle. As it happens, our oils and filters show up about the same time, and with the added threat of a new cloudburst we get quite a few oil and filter changes completed in double-quick time. Brent's bike goes back on the trailer. Several steps forward - one step back.
We make our farewells to Bud and head back to Rutland - skipping between the heavy showers that have come today.
We have been blessed once again with help from a local entity whose generosity has been way over the odds.
I wish to add something here. Since I first became aware of the Nickwackett Garage and Bud Provin some years ago, I have been looking forward to this moment. The pressing needs of the group have somewhat eclipsed my vision of how I wanted this to be, but still I have enjoyed my every minute at the Nickwackett Garage. Bud was most gracious in his allowing of us to reign free in his domain, and I understand that this is not a given thing, so we were truly indulged. We met a number of folks here and they were excellent fellows. Thank you all for your friendship and interest, but mostly, thanks to Bud for letting us in to the inner sanctum of the Nickwackett Garage. Such establishments are now exceedingly rare, and this one only survives by dint of the compassion of one good man. I wish him every success in the universe - as do the 2014 crew. He made us welcome, gave us his knowledge and allowed us the priviledge of working alongside him in his own valuable space. I think this is really big. Thanks mate - we award you the highest accolades for your understanding of who we are and what we are about. I trust that we will meet again. It seems valuable.
We sprint home to the Inn between nasty showers of the excessively wet kind. It proceeds to hose down in fine style for the rest of the evening. We have been fortunate to avoid such dousings on the road - today we skirted the wet whilst achieving much. I think it is a major win.
I think the Nickwackett Garage is one of the best places in the USA. Period.
Go well Bud.
4 June 2014
Rutland Vermont to Baldwinsville New York.
For some reason the name makes me think of Coronation Street - just some random synapse firing off there. Vermont is known for its scenery and we are expecting to be wowed today. Immediately we turn off the main drag south of Rutland we are into the hills and dense bush, and our morning progresses in this way. Most pleasing. We just discovered last night that there is a major event happening in the town of Lake George part way to Baldwinsville. Known as 'Americade' this is a week long event billed as the world's largest multi-brand touring motorcycle rally. That mostly means Harleys, with a few other bikes thrown in. There will also be quite a few Harleys. There are a lot of Harleys. Did I mention...? We meet droves of them long before we get to Lake George. I have often wondered what a plague of locusts look like...
Lake George is a waterfront town on the lake of the same name. It would have been a fabulous little town to experience on an average day. This day it has been taken over by a huge motorcycle event. We see hundreds of bikes both on the move and idle. We see huge banners surrounding some main venue. A rider tells us that you can test ride all manner of new bikes at this event at the manufacturers stalls. Except BMW. They didn't come this year. It is obviously a mammoth thing, and we just stumbled into it by chance. We continue to meet groups of bikes for the next hundred miles. Some wave - some ignore. From our perspective, we seem to be the largest contingent of 'other brand' bikes in evidence. Yay for us.
We stop at Lake Oxbow for lunch. It is just a place we come to, and a large carpark to pull up in. Sometimes it comes down to that. As it happens, we have a wonderful lunch and it is a most pleasant experience. These are the best spontaneous interludes.
Our van crew are looking happy to be here today. It feels like a nice place and we are having a fun day - as usual.
I shall explain a thing that happens from time to time as we travel along. Occasionally someone gets a phone call. They could be in the van or at a table - but it usually transpires that it is Thomas who has phoned them. Just for a laugh. Mostly we are wise to the prank now, and give him some appropriate verbal, but sometimes he gets a rise. In this photo we are happily anticipating our lunch orders. Helen seems to be concentrating on a phone call - obviously any phone call while we are all together is an odd thing..
In this second photo, Helen has realised that she has been 'had' - as have several others. Thomas remains rather non-plussed at the opposite end of the table. Whilst it is just a small prank, this sort of humour always raises our spirits on the days when things are rather arduous. On the easier days it just cracks us up...
Allan then provides another laugh when we realise he has used the Ladies toilet by mistake. There is no mercy when the camera is present..
These small things amuse us and make us feel comfortable about the fact that we are in the middle of uncharted territory, and with no certain outcome this day. We begin our days with little or no idea what will happen and where we are going - but our combined camaraderie always makes us feel at home with our group. I guess it is a coping mechanism that we have invented without ever realising that we needed it. Nice one team.!
We begin to meet waterways. Lots of them. This area of America is close to the Great Lakes, and there are smaller lakes and canals everywhere. Besides recreation, they provide alternative transport routes, so we see locks and bridges all designed to facilitate movement on the water. It is something new to us and it appeals. We are used to the water and feel comfortable around it. This part of America feels familiar to us.
Lots of small towns on our route - we avoid the major highways when we can. Many small towns show signs of recession - closed businesses and entire factories just abandoned. Something about the mass production culture here has not worked well at all. The kids integrate well though...
Our road today has a couple of blind alleys - just places enroute where we attempt to take a lesser road - only to find it too obscure to navigate successfully - thus an unplanned return to the last main road is necessary. This day we make several laps of a country Pub before picking the right road to continue on. The locals got some amusement from it. We resume our course and some miles later pause for a water stop. Beautifully green here by the lakes, but still very hot and humid - so water is imperative.
Baldwinsville is our first "Microtel'. It is relatively new, has chatty and helpful staff, and suits our needs very well indeed. It is always a big event when we arrive anywhere. There are trolley loads of luggage spilling out of the van. The bikes have to be coralled somewhere suitable, and panniers unloaded. Locks are applied. Rooms are allocated. Bags are dragged or trolleyed this way and that. It can take 30 to 40 minutes to just get all the crew into their rooms - after which a meeting has been organised - after which there are necessary arrangements for dinner. It is non-stop effort, and everyone handles it gracefully - especially considering that they have just gotten off their bikes after several hundred trying miles of riding everything from back roads to Interstates - potholed and cracked concrete to 4 lane madness at 80mph plus. Stupendous effort by all, and despite our mistakes in navigation and traffic management - we are all in good spirits, and we all turn up at 0700 to do it again. A tireless and dependable crew. I had reservations about how this might go - but I take my hat off to every one of the group. Very well done you lot. Feel proud of yourselves.!
Baldwinsville is nowhere at all - and yet everywhere. We choose places that suit our mileage requirements on a given day - and that have accomodation we can easily locate on the internet. We try to avoid big cities, and thus our egress is simplified, and our navigation also. The other and often more important aspect is that it allows us some interaction with local people, and that is always a very remarkable thing. We have bumped into all sorts of people, and many more of them than we could ever have imagined have visited New Zealand. They are all unanimous in their admiration for our country and its natural beauty - as we are of theirs. Theirs is just on a rather stupendous scale - so we really have to do the big miles to see all the little bits that mean so much.
Tomorrow we will stay at Niagara Falls - so there's a place we all know about and expect to be impressed by. Will it live up to our naive expectations.? Who knows - but if I reflect on places such as the Grand Canyon and Monument Valley - yes, I believe it will. Seeing these things with your own eyes is a much bigger thrill than I thought it might be. You really should do it..!
5 June 2014
Baldwinsville New York to Niagara Falls New York.
A van day for us. The GPS is set to avoid major highways, so we hope to have a day of leafy lanes. Mostly, we do. We have a detailed plan, and set off with a list of route numbers just like seasoned American motorists. There can be however - some creases in the plan. The crease occurs after we have criss-crossed the Interstate several times and are celebrating our lovely rural road versus the truck-laden 4 laner nearby. We arrive at a junction where we turn right onto the 318 or 381 - I forget now. Sometimes there are two nearly simultaneous turns - so it is possible to turn a few yards before you were actually meant to - the signage is not totally explicit. I think we did that - because for the next few miles there are no highway signs whatsoever. The scenery is just stunning - reminds me a little of back roads I know at home - but there are beautiful farms and ponds and rural tranquility - then there is a T junction. It comes as something of a surprise as the GPS is telling us there are a few more miles to run. Really - it is a matter of left or right - and our next turn is to be left - so we turn right. I know - it surprises me too. A hundred yards later we rethink and make a U turn. This leads to our entering a small town which is not on our planned route at all - but it has signs to another town which is - so we drive straight past the turnoff. A few blocks later we rethink that one too - and make another U turn. Strangely enough we do find the town we are looking for, and heave to for some sustenance. Soon after that we rejoin our original planned event and all goes well from there until we reach Niagara Falls.
Neither of us take any photos along the way - it is all hands on deck trying to unravel the mysteries of GPS and mapreading at the same time. Avoiding main highways can lead to some rather devious route planning, and when the GPS fails to predict the correct turn until you just missed it - or because it doesn't go anywhere - it becomes an artform whereby you lead a group of trusting motorcyclists in weird directions until something makes sense.
Sense restored, we are treated to mile after mile of undulating country roads, with only the occasional stop sign to break the flow. It does not seem to take too long and we are approaching the outskirts of our destination. The 'outskirts' can stretch a very long way indeed, and the closer one gets to a population density, the thicker the traffic and the more devious the links between one highway and the next. Almost too easily we find ourselves turning into the address we have typed out as our Inn for the night. The Rodeway Inn. The folks in the reception are very helpful, but seem puzzled by our reported booking. In fairly quick time it is ascertained that we are at the wrong Rodeway Inn. There is another one 8 miles down the road - closer to the Falls. Great, that will suit us better. About 10 miles later - we have never received any very accurate directions from a distance perspective - we find the real Rodeway Inn and check in with no further hitches. We learn that there is a shuttle service to the town so we can avail ourselves of that free service. We settle in and then all head for the shuttle stop.
The shuttle is a normal sized bus which proceeds to cart us all around town - frequently retracing its steps only to tear off along another seemingly deserted street until finally pausing at an intersection and abruptly dropping us there on the corner with instructions to head 'that' way. That way it is. We find a 'Welcome Centre' that appears to be closed for renovation - but is in fact open and quite busy once inside. The trick is to enter at what appears to be street level, then go down a flight of stairs and exit at a lower level from which one might access the Falls. Not that this is patently obvious. Maybe to some - but not us. We must look like the group from 'terminally bewildered.com'. We follow the general direction of loud roaring waterfall type water, and hit paydirt when we come to the place where all the cameras are flashing. Actually, we wander alongside a nice rushing river for a bit - then suddenly the water just stops. Large volumes of spray indicate that it probably continues some distance below. Which it does. So that was nice. A nice little rushing river..
.. which suddenly seems to run out of water..
.. so Sue poses for the 'missing water' shot..
.. then you notice its a long way down there..
.. and they have these really small people..
.. and even a wee boat..
If you want - you can get on the wee boat. First they stick you in a plastic bag..
Then they motor you close to the American side of the Falls, where the great rushing of air displaced by water blows your plastic bag up like a balloon and douses you with spray.
Now you feel a bit like your garden does after you squirt it with the hose. But not satisfied, they now take you under the horseshoe falls on the Canadian side. This has much more water cascading directly into a large pool, so the effect is more like a very wet tornado. The wind whips at your extremities whilst at the same time liberally dousing you with large volumes of recently displaced water - intent on soaking you despite the bag - and keen to enter every part of your exposed camera. Fun fun fun...
Having to retreat to a safe distance inboard makes it hard to capture the maelstrom - suffice to say I now know what it is like to be inside a washing machine.
Now even the boat people have had enough, so we retreat to a safer distance.
The cityscape belongs to the Canadian city of Niagara Falls - yes there are two - and their side looks a lot more prosperous than our side - even though we do not venture across.
After all that excitement, we take refuge in the 'Hard Rock Cafe' - as you do.
Actually - it is a real blast. I had not realised how close and personal you can actually get to the Falls - both above and below, and it is both an awesome spectacle and an exciting one. From the water especially, the two Falls close together are simply astounding, and one can only marvel at the forces that created them. Water feature city galore.!
That is our Niagara Falls. So glad we were able to include it in our tour. Whilst we only spend a few hours at the scene, it is rather immense in its awesomeness, and is right up there with all the other big scenery we have had the luck to visit. Big country. Big attractions. Cheap gas.
Cool.
Saw a strange homeless person on the way home..
Must be Thomas..
6 June 2014
Niagara Falls New York to Ashtabula Ohio.
The day always begins with packing. Wake - shower - pack. Stack the largest bags in the van on the walk to breakfast, which is usually in or close to the lobby. Breakfasts vary from one Inn to another, but all consist of the same components in lesser or greater variety. Always cereals (sweet), bread for toasting (sweet), grape jelly (sweet), muffins/pastries (sweet), fruit juice (sweet), coffee and sometimes teabags. Often some fruit - bananas, oranges, apples (sweet), boiled eggs, sometimes peanut butter. There is usually some form of yoghurt in a small fridge with the boiled eggs. This is the type of 'yoghurt' that contains around 2% of actual dairy product. Not sure how they can call it yoghurt - or what it really is.
Maybe 1 in 5 of our stays feature cooked food as well. This is going to be egg and sausage. Scrambled egg - possibly powdered - small sausages or sausage patties. Rarely potato or bacon, although not as we know it. For me then, it is half a polystyrene of orange juice, half a polystyrene of black coffee, two pieces of toast preferably with peanut butter - mostly grape jelly. Forget the butter - I suspect it to actually be petroleum jelly. A banana to finish off where possible, and if they are good we take two with us for morning tea. We are really living it up.!
So it is this morning. They do have sausages. After that, finish packing and loading, and prepare to ride out. Brent's bike has been on the trailer since Athens Ohio, but we others loan him our bikes to ride on our van days. Today Allan and Beth will be driving, so Brent has Beth's bike, Allan's and Brent's on the trailer.
This morning we head south to Buffalo initially, following the Niagara river towards it's source in Lake Erie. The river is quite massive and it is a brilliant scenic drive to start the day. At Peace Bridge we catch our first view of a Great Lake. Might as well be the ocean - albeit a very smooth one today..
Next we head up the Buffalo Skyway, a huge flyover/bridge - can feel a tad daunting from this angle - like approaching the first drop on a rollercoaster ride.
This affords us some fabulous views looking back towards Buffalo and the Niagara river. Perfect waterways for all manner of watercraft. I wonder at the need for a warship in the Great Lakes. Perhaps the Canadians might cut up rough. They are after all just across the river..
We follow the contours of Lake Erie as it turns from south to west, mostly we are screened by trees from the view of the lake, but on occasion we see huge abandoned industrial buildings with coal conveyors and stackpiles - possibly old power stations or other non-profitable enterprises that have just been deserted as more cost-effective markets presented. There must be a gigantic amount of empty buildings in this country. We see numerous empty motels, with rooms of fading curtains and weed encroached driveways. Strangely enough - or not - those of us from Christchurch find it a very familiar sight - but on a vast scale. It is a sad sight to view recession on this scale, and yet the magnitude of the abandoned sites makes it somehow surreal. The cameras are finding it very atmospheric. We pause for a cuppa at Westfield, then continue along nice roads with sporadic views of small harbours and that limitless horizon. This is the smallest of the Great Lakes.!
Our next stop is at Erie PA, where we heave to in a supermarket carpark to wait for the van and stragglers to catch up. It is a long wait so we phone the van. Marian has suffered a flat tyre on the Ducati and they have had to swap bikes on the trailer. Lucky there were enough people to do the necessary man/womanhandling.! Thomas is now riding Allan's bike, with Marian riding Thomas' 955 - a big bike for Marian to handle. They arrive in the next 15 minutes, and attempts are made to locate a bike shop which can provide and fit a new tyre. There is one out the Wattsburg road, which means detouring some miles off course, but we do not have options. The bike must be repaired, and we are lucky to have time up our respective sleeves. With a couple of slightly muffed starts, we head out to what transpires is a large motorcycle complex still partially under construction. They are on the ball, and get all the details while we browse their showroom. Allan tries for 'the look'..
The bike shop staff recommend a small pub a mile back as being a good place for lunch. We double-backtrack to the Beechwood Inn for a most enjoyable lunch while they fit a new tyre. A brilliant save from what could have been an unfortunate setback. We are happier campers.
Lunch over we return to collect the bike. We also take the opportunity to purchase a large communal supply of chain lube. We are applying it every day to keep chain wear to a practicable minimum. Back to Erie and beyond. We cross into Ohio and finish the final leg to our motel in Ashtabula. It appears conveniently on the highway we arrive on, and turns out to have the longest passageways ever - and our room is absolutely the last one on the right. Oh well - I guess we have been sitting down all day..
It happens to be the occasion of Brent's birthday. A cake has mysteriously been smuggled in, and we are all obliged to sing muffled versions of Happy Happy Joy Joy through mouthfuls thereof. A nice gesture and handled well by the plotting committee. Thanks. No - really.! Congrats Brent. Tonight we shall head for the Lakeside for a meal. It is Friday night so hopefully something will be open. We enlist a shuttle to help carry our surplus passengers and arrive to find the place is absolutely humming. Various bars and cafes are scattered amongst small touristy shops, traffic is incessant through the narrow street, and there is music emanating from various locations. Cool.! We are drawn towards the lakes edge..
No - not the Bar - the pre sunset afternoon water view.! This has been a good day for us. We started in an amazing place. It seems we have come to an amazing place. The Great Lakes are simply astounding. We had problems today - and we overcame them in fine style - considering all that took place. Well done team - once again you have proven yourselves to be up to any challenge. Now we are celebrating again - the birthday of a valued team member. What a place we have found to do it.! This is just magic.
As always - drawn to water - we head down a flight of steps to the waters edge. Despite the warnings not to swim, it is a rather idyllic sandy beach.
We line up for the 'we were here' shot.
We are now drawn to the sound of music. A band is playing at a cafe just above the beach. This looks like us tonight.
We soak up the ambience as the sun sets..
The wine flows as we are feeling the joy. Shortly we will also be feeling the wine. Then more fun will begin..
The birthday is celebrated to the best of our ability..
We finish our meal and take a look about the shops as the shuttle returns and the light fades. Today we have made the most of what has come our way. Some days we are better at this. Today we were excellent. Thanks all.
Finished with engines.
7 June 2014
Ashtabula Ohio to Coldwater Michigan.
Ashtabula is not far east of Cleveland, so today we will need to skirt both Cleveland and Toledo on our way slightly north to Coldwater. Such places are chosen initially for their ideal distance from current location, but secondly for the availability of accomodation. Today we are also using main highways in order to make better time. This is fine in theory, but it still only takes one major mistake in navigation or an unforeseen holdup to entirely undo such plans.
The other important issue is that by rushing along we miss more of America - although it seems there is an endless supply of it. For example - here is Cleveland..
A blurred image from the freeway is the best we get of some cities. Because we have a bike out of service, and the part we need is being freighted direct to Baxter Cycles, we are intent on reaching them in Marne Iowa by wednesday 11th in order to get the bike going, and for various other services we need as well. The plan is to stay for two nights as close by as possible, and we will undertake whatever repairs we can ourselves whilst Baxters are doing the big stuff - tyre changes, new chains, starter clutch etc. I doubt that we will be able to ensconce ourselves in their workshop as we were able with Bud in Pittsford though - these guys are Triumph main agents, but they are also well known for their trade in old Brit bikes. Our flavour.
More images from todays ride. A chance encounter with a shop window..
I think this says it all..
We cross immense causeways as we skirt the edges of the lake..
A nuclear Power Station near the town of Carroll. I'm sure it is coincidental - but the paint on the house looks as though it has been irradiated..
Amazing bridge structure near Toledo..
Another nameless small town with empty shops..
These are what our days are filled with - snapshots of a vast country and culture - all at once familiar from years of comics, movies, tv - and yet to be right here amidst it all makes it quite real and with a different drama aspect. Life playing out in different circumstances. We are reminded every day that these people are very different to us - even while we can converse easily with them. They have different taboos and a more limited view of what should or should not be allowed. It would be easy for us to offend them accidentally - fortunately we have not done so yet. Except the man in the Indiana Walmart...
Coldwater arrives and we check in. Unusual layout here - indoor swimming pool in the centre of the Inn with all the rooms radiating from the perimeter. There are no outward facing windows. A large group of youngsters are making lots of noise in the pool. A family group are seated nearby. Appears to be a party type gathering. Hope they call it quits before midnight..
A visit is made to a local supermarket and food bought so we can eat in. Nice variety of meats and salads are usually available from a reasonable sized supermarket. How relaxing to have an evening in.
Blog...drink...blog...eat...blog...
8 June 2014
Coldwater Michigan to Glen Ellyn Illinois.
Today we will travel to a place from where we can visit Chicago. Basically a suburb far enough out of the city to allow us easy egress, but close enough that we can take an urban train to the city for a look. The weather report has shown a large area of rain just clearing our current location. It should be clear between us and Glen Ellyn. I walk to the outside glass door at 0630. Steady rain outside and the bikes are thoroughly soaked. We head for breakfast hoping it will clear in the next hour. Great breakfast here. Besides the usual, there are sausages, scrambled egg and a new item - small cubes of browned potato. I manage two servings in it's honour. I like to think that the more I eat at breakfast - the less food I will need to buy today. Most likely - a large breakfast sets me up to eat more than usual on any given day.! Oh well - win some...
We complete the packing of luggage in the rain. It seems to have eased up initially, but as our departure becomes imminent, it is obvious we will need to set out in the rain and hope it holds to the forecast.
We mount up and ride out. We will use the fastest route which involves the freeway network. As we join the I-80 we immediately enter a toll point. This freeway uses a ticket system - so you take a ticket this end and pay a mileage related amount when you leave it. We are new to the game, and the bikes push through in pairs thus missing the required number of tickets. Andi walks back and talks to some remote person through the voicebox at the barrier. The person is helpful and we end up with a surplus. The rain has eased a bit, but the spray kicked up by other vehicles manages to drench us as they pass by. Our speed reduces in rain as we suffer reduced visibility through rain covered helmet visors. We follow the leader leaving enough gap for the spray to settle. By the time we reach our first break at a freeway stop with food, we are in the dry, and relatively warm thanks to the wet weather gear. Some choose to relinquish the wet gear at this point, others keep it on for the warmth.
As is often the case, a freeway run does not produce many photo opportunities. Wet weather also means the cameras are safely stored in a dry place. Whilst we have only experienced about 30 minutes of rain today, there is a chance that we are not entirely out of the woods. By the time we have relaxed about the weather, we are close to Chicago. We pass through a town called Gary. This place is a classic example of the recession hit places we have seen. It is more common in the rural small towns - this is close to a major city, and thus a stronger indicator of hard times and economic decline. A few images that cement our opinions..
Things aint so good in Gary. We reach Glen Ellyn shortly after and find our Inn. Well - we thought we had. Then we thought we had not. For some reason they have several names. There are 3 buildings grouped together down a small side street - a lot of people are milling around and seemingly eyeing us suspiciously. We return the compliment. Despite the photo looking semi decent, we are a little concerned about what neighbourhood we may have dropped into.
We get the luggage sorted and stash the bikes in the carpark over the road. We discover that there is a funeral taking place, so the people we are observing are more of the sombre than suspicious. The rooms are kinda average, but we have a knack of making do. We walk down to the end of the street and find a park. Starting to look better...
We drive to the township in the van. Beautiful streets and houses. Pretty shopping area. It seems Glen Ellyn is a very nice place except for our street. We relax in that knowledge.
We meet good people in the bar we choose - once again - someone who has been to NZ. A pleasant evening in our new surroundings is very reassuring. We are close to Chicago. Tomorrow we will stay another day and go taste it.
Yay.!
9 June 2014
Day off in Glen Ellyn. We are off to the Glen Ellyn station at 0945 to catch our commuter train to downtown Chicago. The station is filling up with people who obviously do this often. For us it is quite exciting and not humdrum at all. Our double deck train arrives on time and we head for upstairs.
Seating is a little cramped upstairs, and there is a ladder type structure in the centre of the inward facing seats for stowing baggage. Interesting though, and plenty to see out the far side window.
A few stops later we are arriving at Ogilvie Transportation Centre - one level above the Chicago streets. We find a suitable food outlet to provide breakfast as our first priority - a nice selection from the deep south. All these terminals are well catered for as far as food goes. Inner persons satisfied, we head for the streets. Apparently we can get a tourist type bus similar to New York - but our instructions fail and we cannot find the correct bus stop. We decide to walk for a bit. Wide clean streets with only a small fraction of the New York traffic. This city has a bit more space to spread out.
We reach the river and wander along in the direction of the Willis (once Sears..) Tower. The tourist buses stop here and we want to get a look from up the tower anyway. The river water is dirty but the walkways are brilliant.
It would seem the river is also another tourist option..
As we approach the Tower I see a camera flash from one of several small extensions protruding from near the top. Hmmm.
We troop into the Tower building via a remote entrance purely for visitors to use the fast elevators to the viewing area. There are rooms full of bumf about the building and general Chicago history. A movie theatre playing non-stop. This is the general scale of American tourist venues. It's all here folks. $24 per head for an elevator ride. Unfortunately it is fully enclosed - so all we can observe is the rate of climb - the ears are popping quick time.! Oh - and we discover that the lift has a mirror ceiling..
The 'Skydeck' is on the 103rd floor, and is 1353ft above the street. The elevator makes this trip in 60 seconds. Bit like the space shuttle on steroids. Understandably, the view is impressive.!
This is the second tallest building in the USA - so it is no wonder we are able to look down on skyscrapers. Still kinda weird though. From the elevators we are steered around the Skydeck in one direction, finally ending up on the side I had viewed from the street. So what's this then.? Seems they have some glass floored extensions so you can perch above the street. Cool.!
We queue up with the masses and await our turn to float above Chicago. It is quite surreal. Looking past your feet down to the tops of high-rise buildings does strange things to your mind. Scary but fun.
I think this rates as one of the most whizzy things we have done so far. Makes 100 miles per hour in heavy traffic on a motorcycle feel fairly ordinary.
Back to the street - ears popping backwards. We walk streets between old and new buildings - all do their bit to make this a rather unique city. New York has the hype - I get the feeling Chicago has the style. We luck upon a park with all manner of art which people can interact with. A sunny friendly place. Brilliant.
We find 'The Bean'. This is a simple enough piece - but it is ultra impressive in the flesh.
However grand it seems - much of the magic is underneath...
This is a fun place and we take loads of photos - but I would be up all night trying to do them justice here. There are two fountains - they face each other and have photographic animated faces. Most effective. Your Chicago visit really should include this place.
We retrace our steps in the direction of the train station - our day has evaporated, and we have only scratched the surface. It is all we can manage on a brief trip around a Continent that has so much to see. There are more sights as we cruise along in busying traffic - late afternoon has come and we need to pause for a minute before boarding our train. Wait a minute. Could this be a Bar...
Seems it is. They have a few nice surprises - including a Lake Eerie Monster..
Take note. This rates as one of the best IPA's I have had the pleasure to sample in the USA. No doubt there will be more.
We return to Glen Ellyn with minds full of Chicago images. A great day indeed - a special place. I was not expecting much from this city and it floored me. It floated me in space. It has real connections to it's people - I guess it shares that with New York at least - but they both have their own flavours. I have yet to sample downtown San Francisco - I think that will be a special event too.
Tomorrow we up anchor and ride to Coralville. Until then...
Cheers.!
10 June 2014
Glen Ellyn Illinois to Coralville Iowa.
Our day in the van. Starts out with a reluctant GPS. Lately it resents being attached to the van via the cigarette lighter charging device. It steers us south towards the I-90 which we have chosen as a fastrack today, but it seems to be steering us east as well. Each time we try to reset it, the warmup process takes so long that miles are covered with no direction. It then changes its mind with each reset. We finally pause at a refresh stop to find that it has reset itself to avoid freeways - so is trying to steer us away from our intended route.
So that's nice.
It is also raining a little..
Fortunately the rain stops just before our break, but it is never a nice start to the day getting wet or off course. We get underway and join the I-90 heading west. There are a number of towns to circumnavigate along the way today - the major centres being the 'Quad Cities' and Iowa City. Quad cities are the condensed group of Rock Island and Moline in Illinois, and Davenport and Bettendorf in Iowa. They are close enough together as to present one large city in our path. Fortunately the I-90 skirts around the edge of 3 of them without us even getting a glimpse, although we do cross the great Mississippi river..
We head further west to Iowa City. Same with that, and we blaze on to Coralville on the far side. Arrive to find our motel just blocks from the Interstate.
We settle in and have a meeting in the lobby an hour later. We agree on a destination for tomorrow - it will be Adair Iowa, nothing to speak of, but it has an available Motel and puts us within striking distance of Baxter Cycles - whose help we need with various maintenance issues we cannot resolve ourselves.
That arranged, there is only dinner to sort. Rumour has it there are places within walking distance, so we walk along the road in the direction of somewhere else. What we find is quite unusual. A Restaurant that has been built in an old Power Station - complete with various overhead cranes and other industrial type appendages. There is a picturesque dam outside. Even has its own label..
This is quite a classy Restaurant, and we dine well. A pleasant evening all round, followed by a brief walk home in a moist evening air. We have been dicing with the rain all day - yet it has never set in - just given brief sprinkles when the air could not hold any more moisture - then recovered to repeat the process again later. Better than being soaked for sure.
Nothing more to add about today - other than - if you ever wondered what Moose drool looked like - here it is..
And its goodnight from me.
11 June 2014
Coralville Iowa to Adair Iowa.
Some days we enjoy the most amazing scenic roads we could never have imagined. Photographs cannot hope to convey the depth of scenery that we have been exposed to - and often at short notice. We can be riding along a vast flat expanse of featureless landscape, then suddenly drop into a canyon of such beauty we have trouble believing what we are seeing. Several times we have come to the conclusion that it looks so picture perfect you would think it had been staged - when in fact it is just nature doing what it does best - but on a time scale that we Kiwis have never envisaged. Canyon walls that have cascaded down over centuries and are now covered with fir trees and grass that look manicured - but have simply been undisturbed by any ravages of weather or industry, and are pristine examples of how well the laws of nature can apply. We came here to see such things, and we have been indulged.
Today though - things will be a tad more mundane. Some days we just bite the bullet and do the miles. There are some stretches of highway that do not have 'the scenic route', so off we go - dicing with the traffic for mile after mile - dodging from lane to lane as merging lanes push yet more semi trailers into the mix. If you are familiar with the onramp from Port Hills Road onto the Tunnel Road heading towards Woolston - where the best way to get in the flow is to gather speed while you turn and merge with traffic doing the same speed - rather than arrive slow and generally stuff everybody up - well imagine that the traffic coming down the Tunnel Road is doing 85Mph - that's around 135Kph for those of you who are mathematically challenged - and you will get the idea that you will need to get on the gas pretty hard or you will simply never be able to get in to the traffic flow at all. Thats how it is. When you drop down - or climb up - the onramp to the Interstate - you nail it. You need to be doing 80Mph if you want to avoid being a squit on the front of a huge semi. Hey - we are lucky - we are on motorcycles with plenty horsepower, but it still requires a bit of gumption to go from a crawl to 80-85 in the space of 50 yards before shouldering your way into the traffic - or 3 lanes thereof. Actually - I find it great fun, and I rejoice in the fact that I am even allowed to ride at speeds in excess of 100Kph - let alone get away with keeping up speeds well over the ton (100Mph) for mile after mile on the right road. Brilliant. Every one in the group has become proficient at travelling at sustained high speed. I figured this would happen, but I didn't really notice it taking place - it just has. NZ roads will seem awfully slow to us for a while when we get back.
Back to today. A blast along the I-80, dodging around Des Moines to reach Adair - about 30 miles further west. Once I would have envisaged visiting such a city just to see what it looked like. Now I know. It looks like a city. It is difficult to get in - it is difficult while you're there - it is difficult getting out. What fun. So - we avoid all but the most charismatic cities - and those we visit in as relaxed a fashion as we can manage. In the smaller places we meet people - even just to swap hellos at breakfast sometimes. Surprising how many of them have some tangible connection to NZ - been there - going there - want to go there - know someone who is there. Remarkable. Not sure if this is a general thing - or just the people who we attract when we go places. Always makes us laugh, and we like to make them laugh with us. Laughing is free.
I cannot recall a single notable thing about the ride though. I lie. I remember following traffic around Des Moines at around 80mph and finding that the I-80 actually has what appears to be a fairly sharp corner in it. Of course it is purely because of the speed we are travelling at - freeways and Interstates do not have corners - they merely have bends. This bend is quite exciting at 80. Apart from that, it could have been a motorway anywhere. The middle of Iowa is not abundant with interesting scenery when you are on the Interstate. You see farms and exits and side roads. You see signs and ads and trucks. Lots of trucks you see. Even the average American vehicle is just as likely to be a small truck rather than a saloon. City people have cars. Everyone else has a truck. Unless you're a motorcyclist. Then you just have a good time. And you wave to every other motorcyclist. Most wave back. Not all - but most. If you meet one/some in a gas station or a cafe you usually say hello and compare notes.
So thats nice.
Arrive at Adair around midday. Hot sun. Park in the shade near the lobby and wait for all to arrive. Check in and phone Jeremy at Baxter Cycles. He is straight onto it and suggests that we can head over there as soon as we wish. At least 3 bikes are to be having fairly serious attention, so the sooner they get delivered, the sooner it can begin. There are also tyres, a chain, various small things that might be attended to. Lets go.!
Marne is the smallest of small towns. When you arrive you are not aware that there is a town at all, just a few houses along a lovely tree lined street. A few houses and a Triumph shop.! We mob the Triumph shop.
Just because they are way out in the country does not mean they do not have a few new bikes on display. And a few ACCESSORIES..
They also have a lot of spares - which bodes well for us..
But wait - they also have a huge inventory of OLD spares..
..and they have a great assortment of raw materials to work with..
Then we get the absolute "Oh My GOD.!" scene.
Yes Veronica - this really is heaven. I should mention here, that in the days that these bikes were brand new - in good old New Zealand - the main agents were lucky to have one new bike on the floor. Most were presold before even arriving on our shores - so if you ever saw one brand new bike you were totally amazed. To see this lineup of very nice examples - and of ALL makes - we are simply flabbergasted. In the best possible way. Baxter Cycles seem to be the brightest star in the British Bike universe to us right now. Wow and Wow again.! Total respect.
Look at this.! A zero miles 'jube'..
And a top Norton Commando restoration..
Tasty BSA's of many models - and we all belong to the BSA Owners Club in our home city..
Baxters impress us from the start. What a treasure trove. To put their expertise where our money is going, the workshop guys quickly appraise all we want. There is a new chain for my bike, new tyre for Thomas, throttle cable and disc pads for Tom - these are all started immediately. Allan and Beth need comprehensive services and new tyres all round, Brent and Ann need new tyres too - and of course there is Brent's starter clutch - the tricky problem that has led to his bike being trailered since Ohio. Whilst the necessary part has been ordered, it has not yet shown up. Hopefully it will do so by the morning.
We lucky riders retire to the "Road House" in Marne - all of 50 yards away, and enjoy lunch and a beer. The whole town breathes motorcycle, and the Road House is no exception. Many of the local population are also involved in working for or working with Baxter Cycles. It is a synergetic relationship, and it is truly unique. We feel very lucky to have come to see these guys - let alone to be the recipients of their skills. For future reference - we realise they are one of planet earth's leading resources for things of the kind we are into. British bikes. Yay. Meanwhile at the bar..
As well as relaxing here, we visit a nearby town which is about to have a massive antique weekend, and generally are given free reign to look around Baxters and talk to their talented workforce. So refreshing to find a team so dedicated to restoring old bikes and keeping many engineering skills up to scratch whilst giving hundreds of old bikes a second chance at life. This truly strikes a chord with us Kiwis - many of us have been living the same philosophy for the last 30 to 40 years. Much as Lloyd Provin does with elderly BMW's = keeping machines alive that are now considered "unprofitable" by mainstream dealerships. These guys are like us - that is why it makes such perfect sense that we are here - to share this approach to life and old technology.
Nothing wrong with it.
All the lesser repairs are finished by late afternoon, and we ride the 30 miles back to our motel. We will return in the morning to see how things are progressing with the big jobs - we feel we are in the best hands.
To finish the day we walk next door to the local diner. Our waitress is the most engaging and entertaining we have so far had the pleasure to be served by - so hopefully the tips are as representative of our appreciation for her happy attention. Having had so many big things attended to today - it really is the icing on the cake to have this pleasant meal in this place. Iowa has been good to us.
We are grateful.
12 June 2014
Adair Iowa. Today is set aside for completion of repairs. Some of the crew will be going to Atlantic to spend time at the local swimming pool. Others will be going to Baxters to finalise business relating to repairs and acquisitions. The main surprise is that Marian is buying a new bike. Having spotted a brand new Triumph Bonneville in the showroom - at significantly less of a price than one could find in New Zealand - she has asked Jeremy what he might offer for the Ducati by way of a trade-in. It has all worked out well, so she went ahead and bought it. Woohoo. Not every day you get a new bike.
I remain at the Motel and update the blog for several hours. Then a stroll to downtown Adair. Sample the high life. The main street is over a bridge and 3 blocks further. It is a weekday, but there is nobody on the street. There are cars parked in front of local businesses, but just what business they conduct is unclear - as there are blinds that prevent one looking in. Small town America does not happen on the street. There are a group of school children being walked around grassy areas in some form of orientation, but no adults in sight. Presumably they walk the 4 or 5 feet from doorway to parked vehicle and that is their total exposure. Drivers passing by give me puzzled glances. Perhaps slightly suspicious ones. What could I be doing - walking about the streets.? You don't normally walk here. New Yorkers walk - and they look much the better for doing so - but most of America is about the motor car and the roads. We seldom see other foreign tourists at the Motels we frequent - but the places are always full of other travellers - and at best they are from another State. Interesting to observe. Charley Braum told us - "we live in our cars".
Steve and I ride to Baxters. We find Tom out testing a Rocket3. Could we have 2 new bikes in our midst.?
Seems it is only a test ride - but he is interested. Allan and Beth's bikes are completed. They have had full services and new tyres. Brent's bike is a dilemma. The new part has arrived but does not seem to fit. There is no point in continuing with any other work if the bike cannot be made to function. There may be a possibility that another part can be obtained by tomorrow - the day we are planning to leave. Apart from that, Ann's bike has been serviced but the new tyres have not arrived. A mixed bag.
Brian Johnson and son Andrew arrive. They live an hour south of Marne and we were put in touch by Kenn Peters from Lawrence Kansas. These guys are all members of a loose group of British bike enthusiasts that started in San Fran - with a fabulous name - The British Death Fleet. It seems we are being passed around their group as we travel - what a wonderful thing to happen.! Brian and Andrew are riding Brian's Ducati Multistrada, but Brian also has old bikes - unfortunately we will not have time to go and view them. We all get acquainted there in the carpark in the sun. Its a motorcyclist thing..
About this time it is announced that Brent's bike is fit for duty. They have found a way to utilise the starter clutch, so it is all back together, serviced and tyres changed. Miraculous.! We have only one outstanding item - the tyres for Ann's bike are still AWOL. There is only one possible course of action that can save such a situation - so we take it. We go to the pub. Not any pub of course. The Road House. This warm afternoon we sit out in the open on the deck and get to know Brian and Andrew - which basically means - we ask all sorts of annoying questions about their lives, the universe and everything. Its a fun game and passes the time between glasses pleasantly. For us anyway. Brian and Andrew are very good natured about our quaint ways and dutifully tell us everything. Once again, I am amazed at how easy this interchange is. We have had the greatest good fortune to meet people like us, who we like, and seem to like us. Well - they tolerate us - thats near enough. I would not go so far as to say that every motorcyclist I have ever met was my idea of a good time - so we are meeting special people. To a man (or other..) they have been very nice people who you could even introduce to your parents, so we have either been receiving the best fortune ever - or for some reason we have just been steered towards the best people for us. I prefer that option because it suits my view of the universe. Imagine the best possible outcome, and you are on your way to realising it. Too simple for words.
After our time at the Road House we decide to adjourn for a meal. Our happy waitress from the previous night had recommended a steak house at Anita, and as that is conveniently placed to suit both us and Brian - he leads the way there. I get to ride as his wingman with Andrew checking it all out from the pillion on the Ducati.
Nice ride through the countryside as the afternoon fades. Shame it is so brief - it is one facet of this trip that I have been looking forward to - riding with local guys on their roads. Cool. I spend a lot of time imagining which NZ roads I would be taking them to should they make it over our way. We always give out the invitation - but realise it is a huge distance to travel for all but the most dedicated. I guess we are. We arrive at the Steak House and laugh. Fun stuff indeed.
A lovely meal and great company. Our time with Brian will be just these brief few hours, but already we know that he is like the friends who introduced us - easy to relate to - kindred spirits who share this joy of 2 wheeled machines. Brian gives us contacts to look up along our way if we are able. We will certainly try - they are bound to be just the sort of people we would want to meet.
Meal over we prepare to leave. Brian and Andrew still have an hour to ride home - we less than half. We say our goodbyes and head back to Adair by moonlight. Lovely night. Great day. New friends. We sure are lucky.
Tomorrow is coming.
13 June 2014
Adair Iowa to Vermillion South Dakota.
We head out to Marne to check proceedings. Everything is completed except the tyres for Ann's Yamaha have not showed up. The guys at Baxters know we are needing to press on - and make an extraordinary offer. One of the staff have a bike with virtually new tyres - they will take them off and swap them over for us - in exchange for the other tyres when they arrive. The bike is ridden in and it is evident that the tyres have only covered a few miles since fitting. We are quite astounded that these guys will go to such lengths to get us mobile in the shortest possible time - this is quite above and beyond the normal lengths that a bike shop will - or can afford to - go to on behalf of a customer. Especially a rough band of Kiwis blazing a trail around their fine country. Actually - we realise that they are responding to our obvious embracing of the same values that they have - preserving this culture of old machines - and the people who still operate them. These guys are kinda special - I would strongly recommend that you take any opportunity to visit them should you be passing through. A wizard place and a huge resource of stuff from the 60's and 70's, but as stated - it is the people who make the difference. They care about what they are doing here.
We decide that while one bike is held up - others can move along. We head away as the advance party while others with unfinished business stay put to complete it. As it happens, Randy Baxter later turns up with his latest load of acquisitions, so we miss the opportunity to meet the man and thank him for his single-minded dedication to preserving these great bikes and the culture that surrounds them.
I'm thinking he has every reason to look pleased with himself. My people tell me there are some very choice examples aboard. Without such people, our years of continuing to enjoy these bikes will be limited. Thanks mates - your efforts are truly noted.
Out on the highway, things are very flat and void of many notable features for many miles. Across the 80 and up the 29 through Sioux City is the fastest route. We do not see much of that city, although it has quite a unique look to it as we approach. Here is the obligatory pillion shot..
We arrive in Vermillion and locate the Motel. Check in complete we head downtown for a shifty. There are a few Bars in the main street plus a variety of eating places. We take note so we can pass on the info to the others, then park up outside the place that appears to have the most patrons. As often happens, people pick up on our accents and we are suddenly in conversation with several people at once. They all have ideas about which places we should visit and where we should eat. One woman is from New York and she advises us to go to the local Chinese Restaurant as it rates as well as anything in NY in her view. That carries weight for us. I sample the local IPA of course..
Pleasantries observed we head back to the Motel and help the others check in as they arrive. All good. We have a meeting to decide where we go tomorrow and by what route. Once all is settled, Brent reserves our Motel, and we turn our attention to our evening meal. Our info is digested and we head for the Silk Road Cafe. The menu is most comprehensive and we are rather bold in our willingness to try dishes we really have no idea about..
Fortunately the food is excellent, so there are very few complaints..
Once our meal is dealt to, we adjourn to a Bar several doors down the street. They are featuring live music tonight, but we are too late as the act is already over. The Bar is very atmospheric though and it is an enjoyable place to spend an hour.
These places are very colourful and are in some way linked to images we have of American Bars we have seen photos of in magazines and movies from decades back. Many of their original features are intact, and they feel friendly and welcoming.
The old neon lighting is especially fun, and it is hard to resist taking a ludicrous number of photos. This is the end of our evening and we ferry back to the Motel in two trips. Vermillion has been a good place for us, and tomorrow we will be gone. Funny business this fleeting experience of new place after new place. While we enjoy the discovery process, there is seldom time to make a real connection as we move on through. Makes us more appreciative of the occasions when we meet up with someone who we have a tangible connection with. There will be more of both. Tonight we enjoy Vermillion. That is enough.
A good night.
14 June 2014
Vermillion South Dakota to Valentine Nebraska.
We have a cunning plan. We will ride south and cross the Missouri river, then follow its southern side as it meanders west - upstream that is - and in such fashion we will miss the boring straight highway that presents itself as the obvious choice. I can not help thinking that we did this on our ride from Lawrence to Washington Missouri. Same river. Far far away. Astounding.
The weather reports have been a little disconcerting. Various storm cells are romping around this neck of the woods. We would be quite pleased if they did their thing somewhere else, but here we are, and ride we shall. The rest will sort itself out.
So it is that I rise at 0530 and peer through the curtains of the Motel window. Ominous dark clouds cover the entire sky. I imagine they might look a bit less threatening once the sun begins to have an impact. However - it will be wet weather gear just to be sure. We do all the stuff called preparation - loading bikes on the trailer, bags in the van, panniers on the bikes. Last minute chain oil and a dozen other things that just occur to one in the final minutes. Then we're off. Pausing briefly at the first gas station we leave town heading west. As soon as we clear town we turn south. It helps to throw any debt collectors or groupies off our trail. A few miles later we cross the Missouri - damn big river whichever State you happen to cross it in. We then turn west again and the road opens up into wide flat undulating farm plains with very little cover.
At times we seem to steer away from the worst patches of dark sky, while other times it seems inevitable that we will cop it. As I glance to both sides of my available vision I can see that it is definitely raining in several places around our horizon, but there is still a chance we may avoid it. We crest a rise and see the rain coming. It is just over the next rise and it looks fairly solid.
The first drops are big and heavy. Within seconds it is pouring on us - not a gradual increase but a deluge. Rain is pouring down both the inside and the outside of my visor. I have to pop the bottom edge open a fraction because my breath is fogging up the inside and decreasing my vision even further. It begins to hail, hard to tell but probably the size of small stones. The wind now picks up and adds another dimension to the onslaught. At the height of the crescendo there is a huge lightning flash and almost simultaneous roar of thunder. We are right under this thing. The rain continues unabated. Brent suddenly pulls over and Ann follows suit. Transpires that he did not have his rain suit on and decided this was the moment. I ride on, not wanting to move a muscle more than is absolutely necessary lest it allows more water in to where I am inside this suit. Hands and feet are already sodden, and I can feel a cold trickle of water in places I would rather not feel anything right now. The only hope is that we ride out the far side of this storm cell sooner rather than later. At last it begins to abate, and as suddenly as it started, the cloud lifts and we ride out into a diminishing steady rain and then no rain at all, but a sodden landscape. Hard to tell how long it has lasted - you are in survival mode and using all your senses to maintain a safe course, so the time is just a factor too many to consider. Distance covered probably about 5 miles.
We arrive at a small town and stop at a gas station. We all climb off carefully, shedding as much trapped water as possible. Boots are upturned and gloves wrung out. This has been a violent soaking with every element a storm could include in a fairly brief encounter. After 10 minutes we ride on. The sky is still threatening, but it seems our way is lighter for as far as our horizon persists. We maintain good speed and the road dries. Eventually we arrive at Niobrara and take a brief rest stop in the back of the gas station, wet weather gear still donned while we get a bite and a warm cuppa. All eyes are glued to the TV weather forecast. Check the decor..
We leave again as the sun begins to break through here, but we get stuck behind a parade of tractors out whooping it up. Slowly..
Once past the farming extravaganza we move into open countryside and the pace speeds up. Still rain threatening on the horizon though..
Stuff you notice on the roadside...
The horizon begins to extend as we move out onto broader landscapes, and the gray sky continues to look foreboding..
I stop on the road and take the inside view from my helmet. This is my view of proceedings on any given day..
We reach a small town and gas up. Not much happening on the street in small town America..
As we get nearer to Valentine, the sky gets even more broody. It looks like something serious is brewing, and the wind gets violent enough to blow Steve across to the wrong side of the road. Not fun. Of course - we all think a tornado might be possible..
Fortunately, one doesn't happen along, and we eventually troop into Valentine and locate our Motel. We are fairly chirpy having avoided a second dousing or anything more extreme. Settle in and go exploring. Some see Bison, we see the town. A bit more action in this place. A wedding party goes by on a trailer..
We find a Diner just along the road from our motel. It gets the nod from our hosts - so we go there tonight. Busy place and all seem to be enjoying themselves. Excellent contrast to our scary weather day. Worth a beer or two..
That was our ride today. It rains overnight...