Part 4.
Lawrence Kansas to Rutland Vermont - plus our bite of the Big Apple.
23 May 2014
Lawrence Kansas to Washington Missouri.
The van leads the charge so the finely tuned and super-intelligent GPS can guide us through the numerous highway changes we will encounter while skirting Kansas City. The time cost of any rider(s) getting separated from the group would be considerable in amongst these fast and densely populated freeways, so it's line astern of the van until we reach a clearly defined piece of today's map after which the bikes will be free to range. Around each hour we will pause at a small town gas stop or just to regroup, plus compare notes on any strange events or items spotted along the way. We are seeing a lot more dead animals on the road and you always make note of the size and/or anticipated speed such a beastie might be travelling in order to plan your strategy for evasion should you happen across a live one. Lately we are seeing deer, some rather large - they would tend to mess up your day. And your hair.. However, we console ourselves with the knowledge that many of these deaths have been nocturnal, and as yet we have not had to ride at night.
We take highway 50 - an old friend now - out through Warrensburg and Sedalia, stopping for lunch at St Martins, just before Jefferson City. There is a cool little cafe next to the gas station and they have gator on the menu. It has been described as a sort of chewy chicken, but I forego the pleasure. Chicken and salads have become Sue's and my usual fare - and we split one meal between us. The salads are great and the servings usually large. Here we have the pinklets..
Off again, arrive at Jefferson City quickly and head across the bridge for our first view of the Missouri river - about the colour of brown ale, and big big big. Even the bridge is monstrous. Actually - bridges - as oncoming traffic get their own version.!
Across the bridge we take a lesser road, the 94 which meanders about as dictated by the river. Despite being narrow and with a surface that is showing signs of it's years in the sun, it is a much nicer thing to be out in the countryside and away from the traffic. We spread out and enjoy the ride. This road follows the northern bank of the Missouri heading east, and it is quite a sweet number despite the surface condition. At 70mph it is even exciting..
We reach a junction and pull up to compare notes. Lush greenery abounds as the river provides ample water for all along its banks.
We are going to head back across the river for a look at a small town called Hermann. There is a festival there this weekend and we are wanting to share the fun if possible. The town is mostly deserted so we park up and wander about looking at whatever is open. We happen to stumble into a small brewery by some strange coincidence, so we sample some of their rather offbeat brews. Mine is a rye IPA - tastes something like a cross between wheat beer and stout. Interesting - but weird.
Break over, we head back across the bridge and resume the 94, only now it gets hilly and twisty and turns into one of our best roads so far. We drop into Washington and locate our stay for the night - the Best Western Plus. Plus what is unclear. We settle in then head down to the riverside part of town where there are celebrations for this long weekend being Remembrance day. The bars and restaurants are humming, so we do a circuit of a few blocks and luck into a nice looking place with - wait for it - an ajoining brewery. The Augusta Brewing Company. Purely chance I assure you. We partake of their food and drink, during which we apparently miss the fireworks display - but we are not perturbed. We seem to have lit our own fuses..
Tonight Sue is wearing her latest purchase - some authentic American boots. Bet these won't fit in the panniers..
A late-ish night by the time we are ferried back to the inn. Early start tomorrow. Blog til 0200. Yawn..
Stay well you lot.
24 May 2014
Washington Missouri to Bedford Indiana.
0730 and we're on the road again. The van assumes the role of pathfinder but with Tom at the helm we are hard pressed to keep up. St Louis is a big city and the freeways and Interstates run through it and around it. There are some frantic entries and exits to try and hit the exact route we have planned and this gets a few riders a bit close up and personal with the other traffic. Somewhat frazzled we reach downtown St Louis. What an impressive place. A huge arch dominates the skyline, and we are so close that when I look up at it I feel as if I am going to fall off the bike. We head right into the city amongst towering buildings enclosing narrow streets.
Suddenly - in one instant, we are grossly off course. We find ourselves on the riverbank on old and broken roads. As the van attempts to unravel the directions being issued by the GPS we make circles on cobbled streets where the holes could swallow a small car. Eventually we regain the city streets but one bike has been caught at traffic lights and the van is rushing away with bikes in close proximity. I stop and wait for Marian to reappear. When she catches up we move on down the street to find Thomas has stopped at the first intersection where they changed direction. We all continue and find Steve has stopped at the next. Now the trail has gone cold, so we haul up and make phone calls. We find our way to their position by asking directions, and eventually the entire troop is underway again. This time we arrive at the entrance to a bridge and see exactly where the error was made - a divided entrance where we missed by a few feet and spent 30 minutes going nowhere. We are extremely lucky it is Saturday and the traffic is very light. Our second attempt is fruitful, and we are soon crossing the bridge and continuing on our intended route.
I guess - if you are Steely Dan fans like me - that was our "East St Louis Toodle-Oo."
We hit the road away from the city and make a gas stop some time later at Lebanon. We compare notes. One bike has fallen over, one bike has no clutch, we are having a difficult day. The clutch problem is just a cable that is stretching rapidly - presumably heading for a total failure. I adjust it and we have functionality again. The issue is that it might fail completely at any time. The fallen bike just has a bent mirror so that is no real problem. We gas up and continue on our way. The next leg to Flora is uneventful which reassures us and we begin to relax a bit. The final leg to Bedford is fine and we arrive happily enough at our destination and check in. It is one of those motels which require that you carry your luggage up the stairs - no great shakes, but it can be the last straw if your energy is at a low ebb. We manage it in good humour, and afterwards we filter down to the local Walmart for food and supplies. We have been making fun of the Walmart phenomenon - it resembles an over-the-top version of "The Warehouse" chain back home. We are learning however, that Walmart has many opponents here - many of their practices are not people friendly, and there is some political angst regarding the effect Walmart is having on local business and communities. We shall be a little more understanding of these facts in future.
Our experience at this Walmart is unusual. Whilst we have previously taken the obvious excess in a humorous manner - here the staff and clientele are slightly unfriendly. We are keen to be friendly and avoid any disharmony, but several times Sue and I encounter quite obvious hostility from both customers and staff. Surprising to us, but more a reflection on the local atmosphere rather than any offensive behaviour on our part. Our conclusion is that these people are a little repressed and thus ready to find fault with anything that does not suit - where in previous experience, folk are quite ready to be agreeable and look for the positive side of events. Purely our observation, but distinctly at odds with all our previous experiences.
The motel staff are perfectly pleasant and agreeable, although some of our fellow guests are rather reticent. This is a new thing for us, and we do not let it effect our behaviour, but it is noted by most that things are different in this state. Indiana has something different going on. As in less joy.
No problems folks - normal transmission is bound to be resumed.
We sleep peacefully.
25 May 2014
Bedford Indiana to Athens Ohio.
Usual 0730 start with Thomas and Marian in the van - due to the clutch cable issue. This morning we will need to navigate past Cincinatti and there is bound to be confusion at some point - so best let the GPS have first crack at sorting it. As soon as we strike the 275 circular freeway, Thomas pulls over. There are two exits and both are the 275. Someone waves toward the "Ohio north" exit and we go there. Many miles later we clear the circular and pull in to a stop just clear of the greater city area. Turns out we have gone the long way around the block - but apart from extra mileage and time, we are not off course, and find our correct highway - the 32 through Jackson and Wellston to Athens. Some signs of industry here..
Even though this highway looks to be a lesser example than those we have been on thus far today, it turns out to be a four lane job and as such, very few amenities next to the road. On these highways the small towns require one to take an exit and often travel some distance in order to find services. So it is we come to the area of Jackson only to find signs that indicate that the township is 2 miles away from the highway.
We elect to stay on the highway and look for the next roadside gas stop. There is not one. By Wellston we are low on gas and thus have to take a gas signed exit. The gas turns out to be just across the overbridge, so we fuel and wait in case another bike shows, but they don't. The distance to destination is now less than 30 miles, so we press on.
We arrive in Athens - the motorway seems intent on shepherding us even further this day. We resist. We find ourselves in town with no direction - so phone the van. They are still at Jackson, but have lost Beth. We elect to hunt for the motel and keep in touch. Shortly afterwards we are sitting at some traffic lights and see Beth ride past. We chase and pull up alongside in what appears to be a main street. Together we track down the motel and check in well ahead of the main group - dislocated but one jump ahead. We have unpacked by the time they all arrive.
Things I saw today that amused me. In this obviously strong religious state I saw a notice on a front lawn. "He died for our sins". I presume this means they shot someone. Soon after we pass through a small town and there is a "Sonic" drive in restaurant. We have seen these places in several other states. This one has a large animated sign declaring "We now have 25 flavours of slush". I imagine that describes their menu quite accurately.
Ever since Lawrence the countryside has been green and abundant. There is obviously more rainfall here. Whilst the main highways do not allow much viewing of homes and small town habitation, the ample vegetation is still attractive. Highways are straight and often devoid of interesting scenery, but they allow fast transit to the next stop. Today has been a highway day.
After all checking in we head down town. It is a pretty university town, and we rejoice in the obvious greenery and atmosphere it has to offer.
We explore the township and are impressed by the university campus and the accessibility of the town in general. Nice to be just another Joe in civvies..
We have seen ads for a local restaurant that offers organic and vegetarian foods - we manage to interest the others in such fare. It turns out to be a wonderful venue with friendly staff and some rather forward thinking as regards it's staff, food and attitude. Just our style.. We share a meal but it does not quite satisfy today. For the first time I order a desert. It impresses.!
Tomorrow we shall meet up with another TOL contact - David Stafford. Like me he still has an old triple that he bought brand new. Now that really is special. Looking forward to it.
Cheers.
26 May 2014
Day off in Athens, Ohio. David Stafford will come to the Inn this afternoon. The crew get up to date with washing, shopping, cleaning and maintaining bikes. I attempt to get more up to date with this stuff. It takes quite a while. I have been researching online to see if I can find any clues to a bad noise/vibration in the motor of my bike. It sounds like major backlash in some gears, and sets up a loud and harsh vibration somewhere in the depths. It gets worse when hot, but each morning it is normal again. As the van has gone in to town, I am unable to unlock the tool locker on the trailer - the keys being in the van - so nothing much of practical value that I can achieve.
Only clues I have relating to reports of rattles involve the clutch, starter or alternator. There seem to be a lot of faults related to 1999 models - much less for 2002 models. Mine is about 2001 from memory. If it means going too far into the motor then I doubt I can achieve it whilst on the road. I will continue to hope for the best - but it does not sound good. This makes it very difficult to ride at low revs, as that is when the problem occurs most. Arriving in towns - especially if there are many stop/starts - is a gruelling process. Shame, as it performs so well at higher revs - in fact it seems to have more power than Steve's 2002 version which should have an extra 10 horsepower than this earlier model. We changed bikes for a stint and both got the same impression. Give your best thoughts for Mr Green.!
David turns up around 1300hrs. We do the introductions - it is always strange to be meeting someone you have only ever spoken to by email. He has maps and ideas - we will not be able to take a ride today as people have spread out, and we need to assemble for a meeting later. It is agreed that David will return around 1700hrs and we will all go for dinner together. His choice of venue turns out to be one that the crew have put on a short list as well. We return to his car. I don't recognise the badges. What is this? It's a Cadillac.! A Cadillac CTS-V no less. I have never heard of such a thing, but he describes with obvious pleasure what sort of machine this is. A very potent one. Supercharged V8 saloon with 6 speed manual transmission, lots of luxury trim and handling to match the go. It certainly looks impressive - not dissimilar to our Holden V8 saloons at home. David also has a number of motorcycles, and he has offered to lead us out of town tomorrow by way of some of his favourite roads. Brilliant.
The crew reassemble late afternoon and we hold our meeting. As it happens, there was not a lot to decide. Our next 3 nights are pretty much decided courtesy of having 3 separate contacts at the 3 destinations that are on the original map. First will be our second night in Athens, then tomorrow will be Elizabeth, PA, with Charley Braum, then Allentown PA with Tom Parsons. All these guys are contacts from TOL whom I have conversed with over the last 4 years, and to meet them and their families will be a great way of learning more about their towns and their country than we can glean from maps and our limited knowledge of American history. Thus it is fairly quickly agreed that the plan will unfold in this way, and we wait until David arrives back before heading to town. Four of us clamber into the snug-fitting Cadillac, the rest follow in the van.
Jackie O's Pub and Brewery looks rather magical when we step in - dimly lit but with myriads of tiny white lights hanging in beads from the ceiling. There is a diverse range of craft beer available, and for the second time - a beer made with hops from Nelson NZ. That has to be my choice then. They offer a 'pitcher' - 4 pints - for $8. There are certain facets of America that you have to love.! This is several of them. We give our selection an honest tasting..
The beer is great - the food likewise. The crew are seldom happier than when eating and drinking. Di's burger meets expectation..
The evening whizzes by until we call an end to play in the knowledge that we will have an early start tomorrow. David makes some passing reference to giving the Caddy some stick - so we say 'why not'. A very rapid trip to Amesville and back ensues, a twisty little road amongst the trees which he knows well as it is his route home. It is certainly inspiring stuff and there are many whoops from the passengers as we get thrust this way and that by this impressive machine - and some skillful driving. It certainly is an experience we shall remember. Team Cadillac. Breathless..
We call it a day - to be resumed tomorrow.
Great day. New friends. Nothing beats it.
27 May 2014
Athens Ohio to Elizabeth Pennsylvania.
Sounds straightforward enough. Nothing straight here.! Get packed up after breakfast and assemble in the carpark with the bikes. David's friend Tim arrives. Brent then discovers that his bike won't start. This bike had a new battery fitted in LA, but is giving every sign of a battery unable to cope. We try jump starting it by attaching leads to Steve's battery - but it makes no difference. So that is significant. We try push starting it, but that is going nowhere - it just skids the wheel. David arrives on a black Sprint 955. Looks right at home. Everyone is testing theories about what might be wrong. I suggest it has developed recalcitrant plebney. You'll have to look it up. It is an interesting thing with motorcycles - and well noted by most owners. If you wander out to your bike at any random time, it will start and run quite happily. However - should you load it up and don all your hot gear - there is every chance that it will now refuse to start. And so it is this morning. We are soon removing gear as the sweat begins to advance from trickle to deluge.
We do get it going - but then we stop it and it won't go again. Having used all available time we give up and put it on the trailer. As there are already two bikes on the trailer, one comes off. Brent will ride Marian's bike today. So we now have two dysfunctional bikes on the trailer. Thomas with a broken clutch cable, and Brent with an electrical gremlin.
The plan is for Tim and David to lead us out of Athens via some nice bike roads that they know well. We set off and are plunged into the forest of deer-concealing trees that line the way to Amesville. Tim shows the way, deftly signalling whenever there is a change of direction or a road hazard. He does so with military precision. He also goes pretty quick. Steve and I try hard to stick to his tail - but with pillion passengers and heavy panniers we are no match for his light bike. We do not let him get too far ahead though. Somehwere past Amesville we stop at the roadside in a small town to wait for the rest to catch up.
Almost immediately a car stops, and an elderly woman opens her door and advises us that there is a good cheap breakfast cafe just along the road. As we speak to her she asks where we are from. New Zealand. Wow. What happened - did you take a wrong turn.? She is sharp as a tack. Fun people we are meeting. David and the group arrive so we light out again, carving our way through very swoopy and twisty roads heading east. Brent riding Marian's Ducati instead of his 1050 Sprint..
At one point we become stuck by roadworks, and spend some time waiting in very humid air until the roading trucks come by and we can proceed. By the time we reach Hannibal we have hit as many corners as our entire stay in the USA so far.! We have some refreshment then say farewell to David and Tim. They have lead us all the way here over some of the most amazing, and as Tim puts it, 'technical' roads we have yet seen. We have covered 90 odd miles but are no closer to today's destination - but what a blast. Ohio has some lovely back roads and we have ridden right through much of the Wayne National Forest. From Hannibal we follow the river up to Moundsville - gazing as we pass at all the activity on the Ohio river - barges of coal for the power station - machinery of all imaginable kinds, and the huge river itself - rolling quietly by. We cross to the eastern side and immediately climb into the hills, following the 250 to the 891 which becomes the 21 as we cross the state line into Pennsylvania. This is also a twisty, hilly road which in time takes us all the way to Uniontown. We have been travelling under brooding skies - wondering if we might elude the inevitable rain, but the jury is still out.
We had started today with an 80% chance of rain. In reality we just had a very damp atmosphere with extremely high humidity. There had been a few light spots after lunch, but nothing more. As we regroup in Uniontown the thunder and lightning begin. We decide to get moving but the rain catches us while we are sitting at traffic lights. Hard rain and rising wind. The first bikes have made the lights and disappeared into the rain following the van. It feels kind of inevitable that we are to be thoroughly soaked now, and the road conditions have deteriorated to being quite dangerous in seconds with the downpour. The traffic lights here have extremely long delays, so after an age during which the rain pelts us, we get the green and turn left. Within yards we find Tom and Helen sheltering under an overpass and join them with glee. Four bikes huddle together trying to keep far enough off the lane so that no vision-impaired driver might clobber us. We all have minimal gear on for the heat, and most of our wet stuff is in the van. It seems that a storm that arrived so fast might leave as abruptly, so perhaps we will only need to shelter here for 10 minutes. Three days later we are still here.! Oh - no - that was the unhappy ending. This is the happy ending version. We get a phone call. The others (they sound sinister don't they - the 'others'...) are holed up at a gas station only a few hundred yards away in the spray. We decide to just get it over, so mount up and ride along until we see the place.
I shall explain a point here. I have the utmost faith that everything works out for the best. I also know why - but I have trouble convincing 'others' of the mechanisms at play. Steve will tell you this - despite being party to numerous events when we have been together and 'things' just mysteriously worked out in the most enjoyable way. Here comes another.
The American people are very considerate of each other on the highway, but quick to let you know when you are not playing the game. If you hog the fuel pumps you soon get the treatment from another motorist who does not wish to wait any longer. However, where the pumps are is where the roof is, and this is the roof we wish to take shelter under. But - America has regulations concerning 'gasoline vapour emissions' at petrol stations, and require all vapours to be held in a collection tank. Every so often they send an agent to check the pumps to ensure this is taking place. This petrol station. This day. Right now. Pumps closed across three bays. We park our bikes between them as nobody is allowed to use these pumps until the man has completed his tests. We troop inside and drink hot fluids until we feel suitably revived. Although we are wet, we are all excited about the recovery, and the ferocity of the storm we have just experienced. Nobody can take exception to our parking of the bikes. A good lesson here on many levels.
I phone Charley Braum. He is concerned as to how we might be faring, but I assure him we are ok and on our way. He describes a spot along the highway where he will be waiting to escort us in. We head out, spray misting our visors from the wheels of the speeding traffic. Constant wiping is required in order to see where you are going, although the rain has mostly stopped. Sure enough we find Charley at the prescribed place. A quick head count and off we go, glued to the rear of his Jeep. There are a few interchanges of highways - lucky we have a guide. Charley leads us to a very nice looking Motel at Bridgeville - 10 miles from his home in Elizabeth. Not only has he made a reservation for us - he has used a large portion of his bonus points to pay for all the rooms.! He opens the rear hatch of the Jeep to reveal a chiller full of sodas and beers. He invites us to head around to his place to share a meal he has prepared - as soon as we are ready. Like wow.! How much generosity can we stand.? Honestly, I have organised this trip with the wish to share the knowing of these people I have met online, and to find out more about their lives - and then they share so much more with us - we feel very humble and eager to show our gratitude. We unload and install ourselves here, then hit the road to Charley's place. We arrive in a lovely neighbourhood and Charley shows us the surrounding houses. He has installed his son and daughter and their respective families in the next houses, and explains in his words - if you want to live in a good neighbourhood - buy it.! He has set up tables in his garage to allow us all to eat, and is soon carting large pots of hot food in whilst encouraging us to check out the beer fridge. In the background are enormous claps of thunder and very demonstrative lightning strikes that sound very close. The garage had two rather tasty occupants when we arrived, and he allows us to push them outside. They are classic British cars of the ilk we so much treasure at home, and he has poured his energy into their restoration.
The thunder gets closer as we all devour Charley's brilliant food. The rain begins in a similar fashion to our earlier exposure, and Charley's highly polished treasures are out in the rain. We offer to move the tables and bring them in but he won't hear of it. I feel distinctly guilty about this but it is his wish to entertain us and we must honour that.
We certainly do justice to the lovely food which he describes as the fare you would enjoy at a Hungarian wedding. Certainly works for us. As we travel about - taking advantage of the numerous roadside food resources - we miss home cooked food, and here we are being offered something delicious and new - we take no prisoners. We meet wife Nancy and their daughter and baby also come to say hello. We have been dropped into the heart of several American households. They seem excited about what we are doing, and keen to ask as many questions as we do of them. You know as you talk that these people are just like us, and yet from a culture that places emphasis on differing values to our own. These guys seem to have more grounding in their place of being - larger circles of constant companions - less wanderlust than we Kiwis who cannot get enough exposure to the contrast of other styles - thus travel far and wide to instil greater appreciation of our own place on the planet. We seem to be a displaced culture. Educated about our ancestral origins in the United Kingdom but lacking the same pride in our own places of birth. There is a longing in us to find our true historic past - and yet we do have one - it just is not as old as that which these guys enjoy. We are youngsters in history. We travel to visit those we see as elders - and these people here are all well-schooled in their own history. More than us in ours. I am trying to pinpoint some specific explanation as to why we are here, and what it is that we feel about Americans and their somewhat violent beginnings in the wild west. I guess it is the stuff of movies we saw when we were kids - and we are here to see what really happened after John Wayne and Clint Eastwood settled down. To our amazement, all those old things are still evident here. They don't tear them down - they leave them as monuments or decaying tributes to past economies and ways of life. Old America is still here, and we came to taste it. Our new friends have helped to fill in the blanks as to how they see it, and what their contemporary lives look like. They are all at once very different to us - but the same. We are people first - inhabitants of this or that country second. I love our new friends, and I feel their love in return. How incredibly lucky we are that the world as it is allows us the benefit of doing what we are doing right now. Perfect timing. The rain moves on.
There is another garage and we get to peruse the contents. It makes sense - Charley has a thing for British vehicles. This might explain why he has owned two Tridents, and why he found himself on TOL where I made his acquaintance. He has also worked in NZ - so he has some appreciation of how we think. Great depth to this man.
After our delightful meal, we head back to our Motel with a plan to ride north again in the morning. The rain is hammering down again and our passage is punctuated by huge lightning flashes and following thunder. It is bigger and more demonstrative than thunderstorms I have experienced at home. We all marvel at how 'big' everything is in America - even their storms. Charley insists that this is something of a rarity - and that we have arrived in the middle of something big. I feel that the biggest thing is the size of his heart, and the degree to which he let us in to it. Tomorrow he will be available to show us the nicest route north should the weather allow us to move on. We retire to our motel with full stomachs and happy feelings about the course of events. A big day on the road for sure - but a bigger day in the field of experience.
We are aware now that our passage through this vast country is revealing more than amazing scenery. We are finding most amazing friends. It all means so much more now. Thanks you guys - you do not realise how special you all are.
Respect.
28 May 2014
Bridgeville Pennsylvania to Allentown Pennsylvania.
True to his word, Charley turns up at the Motel at 0830. We have delayed our departure for a couple of reasons - to repair Thomas bike with the new clutch cable that Charley has bought us, and to allow time to disseminate the weather reports covering our intended path. The storms have left some considerable damage behind in the Pittsburgh area, and the rain has poured down outside our window most of the night. We arose to drowned bikes and steady but light rain. By the time we have finished breakfast the rain has mostly ceased. We bring the trailer under the motel entrance and replace Thomas clutch cable. All goes well and Thomas can now ride again, having driven for two days. Brent will drive today as his bike is still in trouble. The weather reports have shown a band of rain extending right across the Pittsburgh area, but clear to the northwest where we are going. Charley is of the opinion that we will be wise to move as it could set in here and delay us even further. We agree. We head off trying to stick with Charley in the Jeep. It goes well and the roads are mostly dry. We follow along some pretty roads that are made more atmospheric by the misty low cloud. We then join the highway and plough along making up time towards our destination today - an ambitious nearly 300 miles. This may not sound like a big mile day to many of you out there - but when you do it day after day the other factors can become the real time consumers. Perhaps with a smaller number of participants it would be easier - but shepherding 8 bikes and a van from either end of the fleet is an act requiring some expertise - one which we are all becoming more adept at.
We pause for morning coffee at Ebensburg, a gas station supplying the venue. Prior to this we have passed the oldest Triumph Dealership in the state - long closed but still remembered by many as a significant business of the day when British ruled. Charley supplied the photo.
I have few photos of this day. We started out with wet weather gear on, but at lunch we removed it as it continued to warm up. Eventually we began to feel like mobile saunas, so stripped off the waterproof stuff and reverted to our lightweight gear. We stop for lunch at a point where Charley will return home. He waits while we eat, then in a final act of generosity, donates his entire chiller complete with contents to the expedition crew. We stash it in the van and thank him yet again - much handshaking and invites to visit us in NZ should he ever feel the urge. We have made this offer to all our new friends. It seems almost preposterous that they would ever fly all the way down to our little islands in the south pacific - but should they manage - we will be ready to show them the same hospitality they have afforded us.
On our own again we continue toward Allentown. Tom has roared off ahead and as the miles go by we wonder where he has got to. By the time we are skirting Harrisburg he has already cleared the town - even though it was not on our route. We agree to meet at the Red Roof Motel - our stay in Allentown - or close to it - and move on. The last 30 miles take ages. A straight highway with masses of traffic, and the temps are dropping to the point that we are all quite chilled again. We finally arrive at the place and check in without problems.
Our contact here, Tom Parsons, answers my call, and has invited us all to share a meal at his house in Coopersburg. After cleaning up we head that way with van and trailer and all the bikes. Our arrival meets with great enthusiasm from the welcoming party Tom has arranged. We are fed and treated to a grand assortment of beer while we swap notes on bikes and cultures. The womenfolk all congregate indoors while we party along outside and in the garage Tom has cleared for us to store all the bikes.
One of Tom's friends has brought a large chiller full of IPA's - India Pale Ales for those who lack the refinement. My boy Sam had told me to look out for any by a brewery called Dogfish Head. I explain this. He places one in my hand..
Pardon the blurry shot, but it is getting dark now. This is in fact a bottle of Dogfish Head 60 minute IPA. I hope it meets with Sam's approval. These guys do me proud with all manner of exotic brews from a range of brewers all around this end of America. Unfortunately, I spend so much time talking with them all, I hardly manage to finish one. As the evening wears on, we manage to squeeze all our bikes into Tom's garage..
Tomorrow we will all be travelling to New York on the bus - so it is a blessing to have all our bikes in a secure place while we will be absent. Cathy helps to ferry us all home again, and we head for bed with heads full of yet another fantastic meeting with new friends. Wow. This place is shaping up so well. Thanks for all the food and drink guys - appreciated as much as making your acquaintances.
29 May 2014
Allentown - New York - Allentown.
No riding today except in the bus. 9 of the crew will stay over in New York for 2 nights - 4 will return to Allentown same day. Steve and Andi, Sue and I will be the Allentown contingent. We catch separate buses and are on our way to the big apple. Feels kinda big. The bus ride takes 2 hours and for the most part is via tree lined roads in the countryside. I never thought that so much of America would be so green. Beginning as we did in LA - basically built in a desert like region - it was not until we reached northern California that we saw any serious amounts of real green. After clearing the Sierra Nevadas we saw very little forest until the Rockies - then it was flat hot plains all the way through to Kansas. Lawrence was where it suddenly changed. Green fields, lots of trees, and obvious signs that water is readily available. The growth rate must be pretty high with the hot humid climate, and much of the roadside greenery we are now seeing is likely a springtime phenomenon. It seems to have gotten even more dense up here in New York State. We finally pop out of the green lanes around Newark, and shortly afterwards we catch our first glimpse of the big skyline..
I guess it is one of those "you had to be there.." moments - it felt much bigger than it appears here. While not obvious from the route in, New York City is quite a small area, but boy, they sure cram a lot of stuff in there. We meet up at the bus exchange, eat a late breakfast, then head in different ways. The stayers go off to check in at their hotel, we other 4 hit the streets. Sue and I buy tickets for 72 hours worth of down town circuits. This gets you on a bus with an open top deck, and in our case, loops around between Central Park and the Staten Island Ferry - with all points of call inbetween. We decide we will stay onboard for at least one entire circuit before pinpointing where we most want to get off. It is awe inspiring driving around gawking upwards at all the massive buildings. The streets are quite narrow, or appear so as they are flanked by such tall buildings. They have every sort of area that most large cosmopolitan cities have, but they also have Wall Street, Empire State building, the Chrysler building, the World Trade Centre, the remains of the towers - which is now an underground centre apparently. There is a WWII aircraft carrier museum with all manner of aircraft on the deck - including a Blackbird, a Concorde and a space capsule. I could have spent an entire day on that alone. We finally get off near Central Park. Buy some lunch and eat it in the park. Food is much more expensive in NY. This may explain why the people are generally in good shape here. They also walk a lot, because there is nowhere to park a car, and they move faster. We have been amused at the apparent slow pace of American business as we experience retail outlets along the way - but in NY they seem much more on the pace. The buses have very vocal tour guides and they keep up a running commentary as you cruise along. Occasionally you pull up alongside another tour bus - I fight the temptation to leap from one to the other. Many foreign speaking folks on these buses. As our guide says - NY is now mostly a tourist town. We are the currency. The streets are mostly clean, although the subway grates smell really bad. There are lots of people on the sidewalk, and as the afternoon draws on the numbers increase. Our guide says there will be a million people on the streets by 7pm. Looks like most of them are already there. But back to Central Park. We eat lunch in the sunshine. A young woman nearby takes our photo for us.
We have spoken to a number of people in the street. They are friendly and smile easily. This feels like a good place. The energy is obvious. Car drivers constantly tooting horns - not obvious why - makes no difference. We walk along 7th Ave. Some streets look smarter and the people are different - as in, they sport different clothing and maybe look more businesslike. We stop for a drink and I get the first real coffee I have had in America. Fabulous. I compliment the barrister. We hop aboard another green bus. Make another circuit before heading back to the bus exchange. It takes a long time to get anywhere in NY, and our day has evaporated. I shall now place a few photos of the bus experience.
7th Ave.
Times Square.
Tall glass.
Central Park.
The Iceberg.
Empire State.
Chrysler.
We take the bus back to Allentown. A nice town in the country. A million images in our minds eye. This was a big day. We are simply overpowered by NY. I understand why so many are intoxicated by it - it has so much energy. It would take a month to assimilate it. I would like to come back here for a month and just get to grips with NY. I think it would be worth it. For now - we just take the images away with us and know that we were really here. Wow. One thing keeps coming back to me. Our guide who looked like Danny de Vito was going on about the cost of renovating this building. He was a cheery Dude and put things in great perspective. It was around 4.15pm. To quote - so I am not swearing - "3 million dollars and they couldn't fix the f***ing clock.!" New Yorkers are their own harshest critics. The offending clock..
One tiny bite of the apple. For at least Steve and I - we shall have to be happy with that. Tomorrow we will be on bike maintenance duty while the rest do another NY day. Oh well. Someone has to do it..
30 May 2014
Coopersburg, Pennsylvania. This is the area where our friends Tom and Cathy live, and whose garage we have transformed into a bike emporium. I hope they like the look..
Notice the bike front left is a T160 Trident - Tom's bike for many years. Great company for our bikes to be in - and very much like my own Trident at home. Aaaahhh. Steve and I arrive here after dropping the girlfolks at the bus station. We drag many of the bikes out on the driveway and clear space to work on Brent's bike with the starting problem. A few tests show that the battery is down a bit - presumably from all the efforts of trying to start the thing prior to now. Removing the battery means removing a number of other bits first, so we do that, and put the battery on charge. I check all the battery connections and the solenoid connections, and tighten everything that resembles an electrical circuit to do with starting. We also clean up the van and trailer toolbox, oil and adjust chains, find a broken throttle cable on Thomas bike, and finally enjoy lunch with Cathy, Tom and one of their sons.
After lunch we head for Coopersburg where there is a Triumph shop. The shop has a billion Ducatis on display - the largest range of Ducatis I have ever seen. They also speak Triumph, and are able to supply everything we need. A new throttle cable, oil drain plug washers, some oil and filters for Allan. It always impresses me immensely when a bike shop has everything you ask for.! We return to Tom's and refit the battery to Brent's bike. It cranks over for a while then fires up. I stop and start it several times - it seems happy. Brilliant. We chat to Cathy while she is going about her daily routine. It seems unimportant in the scheme of things - but it feels strangely familiar and comforting that we should be in the vicinity of New York - thousands of miles from home - and yet here is life just as we would experience it on an average day at home. Hard to put the feeling into words - but it feels good.
The afternoon moves on. We clean up and manoeuvre all the bikes back into the garage. Tonight Tom is playing a wedding gig with his band, but Cathy and the rest of the gang will be dining out at a local brewpub - we are invited. The girls will be returning from New York on the bus at some stage but we have yet to hear from them. We agree to make the place, and head back to the Inn to clean ourselves up after a day's spannering. We get a text to say the girls have caught the 6pm bus which will put them back in Allentown at 8pm. We rush off to join up with our new friends to enjoy a final meal together. It is a nice venue and everyone is in a chatty mood. This is Friday night and obviously a time of celebration for them. It feels like a really cool thing to participate. A few very nice craft beers help to loosen the tongue, and the talk flows freely. You know that you are in the right place when it feels so easy to communicate with people - regardless of how little you know them - or vice versa. A lovely time and nice food to boot. It takes a while for it all to come to fruition, and we get a phone call from the bus station before we have finished. We wind it up as fast as we can politely do so, and make haste back to Allentown. Our significant others are a tad despondent that we have seemingly forgotten them, but it is all forgiven once we explain - the need to be in two places simultaneously. A great night - thanks you guys - most grateful to share your company and your good energy.
Tomorrow we will move north again. Tom will show us a nice route up the Delaware river - sounds perfect.
We made it to Allentown, and we made it to New York. This will mark our furthest point east - after heading up to Vermont we will begin heading back west. Feels a bit like a milestone point in the trip may be arriving. C'est la vie.
31 May 2014
Allentown Pennsylvania to Milford Pennsylvania.
The guided tour of the Delaware coming right up. Today we will be following a Trident - the sound we love to hear, and strangely muted on these modern bikes - except for Steve's. It takes some time to get everybody prepared - and yet we are a little reticent about leaving these people behind. It seems we can make a meaningful connection in a day or two - and having just found the sort of people we would love to share time with - we are moving on again. Such is the life of the tourist. And this is a tour. However we all know that our passage through this land is enriched greatly by these brief interchanges with those who are our counterparts in a country whose geography we have already grown to love, and whose people we are beginning to understand better. I find it amazing that all our encounters with the TOL contacts have turned out to be people very similar to us. Motorcycles are only a small part of who we really are, and yet here are others who value the same things we do. I am unable to explain this in any logical way, but I am so incredibly pleased that it is so. We are receiving emails from those we have already met along the way - welcoming us to return if we get a chance. Dare we entertain the thought that our time with them was as valuable to them as it was to us.? We feel something of a curiosity in a way - when we mention "New Zealand" we wonder if anyone will know where that really is - and what sort of folk we might be to come from such a place. And yet - in no time at all, we feel we are being accepted into their lives as if they had known us much longer, and our open discussion of our ways makes sense to them. Let's face it - America is just as diverse as our own country albeit on a much grander scale. There are many classes of people here, and surely we would not make a lot of sense to them all - but we find groups of people who are strangely familiar, and easy to get in tune with. Whatever mechanism is at work - I embrace it. We seem to have a knack for finding just the right people and they seem to value us. There could be no better outcome, for we value them immensely. So to all you guys who have helped along the way - a friendly face and a warm handshake - please accept our most gracious thanks. You are the life blood of America for us - and your pleasant ways will be the memory we take home of what America is all about. It is all about you.
We prepare to leave amongst the most pleasant surroundings..
Besides Tom, Chris and Andy also show up for the ride out. We are honoured. Riding out from Tom's is in itself a journey through very pretty countryside. We detour to Coopersburg township to gas up - but also to take a peek at todays display at the Triumph shop. They have a Britten on show.!
Rather auspicious that this should turn up today. Curiosity satisfied, we hit the road again - kinda strange to have 3 extra bikes in our midst. We are in the van today so while we miss riding these lovely roads - we at least get to use our vehicle as a camera platform.
We weave our way through the lush countryside and eventually find our way to the banks of the Delaware river. It is a lesser volume of water than the big rivers we encountered further south - the Missouri and the Missisippi - and it has rapids here and there. It is much more attractive though.
Small towns come and go. Small by American standards at least. Up through Easton and along Milford Road until we reach Bushkill. Lovely names they have here.. Tom and the boys will return from here, while we continue on to Milford. It is the beginning of the summer season and suddenly accomodation is no longer a sure thing. Rather than wind up without a bed for the night, we find some motel space near Milford and decide to settle in. We are split between two motels a few miles apart, but at least we have beds. We agree to have breakfast at an old American Diner in the morning. Finished with engines today.
Thanks for the escort mates - and so much more besides...
1 June 2014
Milford Pennsylvania to Rutland Vermont.
The lost day. We share a great breakfast at the Diner. Very atmospheric place dating back to the 50's. It has lost it's jukebox, but still has plenty of the trappings that make these places special for us.
After our healthy (ahem..) breakfast, we hit the road en masse. Plan is to follow the 209 to Kingston and refuel there. Perhaps there are previous stops - but the names vanish from your mind as you pull away. We leave the highway after finding Tom and Helen waiting at the roadside at the first offramp. We find a gas station immediately and do the fuel thing. Brent arrives a bit later having dropped back at some stage and lost the group. He then took the I-87 to catch up, and spent quite a few miles at 90mph. He still arrives after we do - it is extremely difficult to make up lost time. Now we are all assembled we can not locate the van. Steve and Andi have also taken a different route and are having trouble finding where we are. Some time later we are all assembled in the one place again. Today is strange.
The second part of the plan involves taking a lesser highway north. In fact - two lesser highways. The first is 9W. This is apparently accessible from further into town, so I lead the bikes in that direction. Before we see any reference to that route there is a detour because of roadworks. Fairly soon we seem to be leaving town heading south-ish. This is not the desired result. I pull over and all the bikes heave to behind. Nobody is sure of the way. There is a guy across the road messing with a motorbike. I wander over and ask if he knows the way to the 9W. He does, but the details are very confusing. I figure I will have a go at carrying them out - but then he walks over to us and offers to guide us. Brilliant. Nice chap. We wait a few minutes then he pulls out and we follow our pathfinder.
It is so cool to see who turns up to assist when you are in need. This chap had just returned from a ride, and offered to help just like that. Not only - he leads us along some fabulous little country roads - most pleasant after our straight highway roads in - and finally stops at a point where we can rejoin the 209 - with instructions to turn off at the 4th ramp to find the 9W. Thanks friend - you have helped alleviate our disorientation. Maybe there was something in the water at Milford - but we are decidedly off course today.
We do all the above and lo and behold - we are back on track. The 9W plods around some interesting and quirky countryside, even leading us into the town of Catskill - a name we are familiar with from country legends, movies and songs. Unfortunately, there is another deviation from the 9W to the 7W that we overlook, so in due course all the bikes wind up at Albany while the van winds up at Bennington. Small detail. But significant distance. We refresh ourselves at a gas station before heading out. We know basically where we need to head through the outskirts, and proceed to do so. The neighbourhood deteriorates as we go until we find ourselves in a fairly depressed part of town. No problems, and a few of the folks loitering on the sidewalk speak to us as we pause at lights and stop signs. It could have been a bit of a scary place, but in fact I thought it was pretty fun.
Eventually we reach the edge of town and our correct highway. We cross the river and share the road with some Harley guys. At the lights they ask about our California plates, and when I tell them we are from New Zealand they seemed perplexed. They are friendly enough though, and ride along for a while. Its that biker thing.
We reach Bennington 30 minutes later - lovely town with some very impressive homes. Lots of trees and a comfortable feel to the place. We find the van sheltering in a park and join in. Getting off your bike after several hundred miles in the current heat is always a great relief. With todays odd navigational errors it also feels secure for us to all be in the same place together. With the added benefit here of nice shade trees this feels like a haven, and we loiter for some time.
See our first chipmunk here - smaller than a squirrel and lacking the fluffy tail. Fun to watch. So far all the wildlife has seemed pretty non-threatening. Nice trend..
We have one more stretch to cover today - from here to Rutland. Only 55 miles in total, and all on this one highway - seems we could hardly go wrong. We all gear up and get back on the road. We crossed into Vermont just before arriving in Bennington, and we will now skirt the western edge of the Green Mountain National Forest. The road gets curvy and hilly as well as faster. Hard combination to beat.! This is much more to our liking, and we regain our adventurous spirits.
And so we come to Rutland and check in to our Inn. It was a long day, and we did extra miles to pay for the navigation errors. Perhaps we will try harder next time.
Perhaps...